Slovenia 2: Ljubljana

Leaving Trieste, Italy, we drive toward Ljubljana, the Slovenian capital, less than two hours away. Within a half hour, there is an exit for Lipica, the historic breeding ground for Austria's Lipizzaner stallions. We are not horse enthusiasts so we skip this stud farm. But we are in Karst country and a visit to limestone caves is a must. There are two choices and we opt for the more popular one, Postojna.

At the opening hour of 10am there are already two large Korean groups but few independent travelers. There are photographers at the entrance like in a cruise ship and a long mini-train waiting inside a-la-Disneyland, so I am braced for a tacky experience. However, once the train starts darting through the serpentine tunnel of the stalagmites and stalactites at what must be a record speed for cave transport, it certainly has a high amusement value.  It's a wonder how the limestone formations or the human limbs are not damaged when they zip by each other so closely. It's also a relief that there is no prime color lighting like in Chinese caves.

Postojna Caves: it's not divine light but the guide explaining that a growth of 1cm takes 100 years

 

The union of a stalagmite and a stalactite

 

Predjama Castle near Postojna Caves: let your imagination run wild.

I first heard about Ljubljana in the late 90's as a hidden gem/up and coming destination but it appears to have arrived. Although there are throngs of visitors packing what may be the highest concentration of sidewalk cafes anywhere, Ljubljana feels relaxed and low-key and locals are friendly. Life in Old Town is centered on the river in a compact area.

 

No, not Amsterdam, but Ljubljana. The river runs through it. Forsythia has been a common sight in the Balkans.

 

Triple Bridges to Preseren Square (can you see all three?): an engineering marvel or a model of redundancy?

 

 

Good food is a major ingredient in a great city to hang out. Ljubljana has got it, like this local cheese and mushroom dish.

 

Any city that honors Gustav Mahler is alright by me. He held his first conductor job here.

Street musicians on Cobbler' Bridge: Day or night, life revolves around Ljubljanica River

A morning hike up to Ljubljana Castle: Preseren Square in view

a morning market in Old Town

Doors to Ljubljana Cathedral commemorating Pope John Paul II's visit in 1996

 

Artwork abounds in Old Town Ljubljana, adding to its vibrancy

All bridges have a name (and history): this one is Dragon, an important symbol in Slovenia

 

Butchers' Bridge