Montenegro

Most visitors to this little known country (independent only since 2006), at least to its coastal region, seem to include it in their itinerary because of its proximity to Dubrovnik essentially as an afterthought. We are no exception but hearing enough praise about its natural beauty I have always had it on my short list. But with barely two days here, I keep my expections low and my motor running (literally as we now have a rental car).

Border crossing from Croatia into Montenegro is smooth and we arrive at the Bay of Kotor in mid day. The Bay is more like a complex-shaped lake dotted with villages on its shores, quite an impressive sight. The towns do not have the sophistication of Dubrovnik and seem generally poorer. We soon reach the town of Kotor, our destination. Just rolling our suitcases from outside the city wall to our fine small hotel and sitting down for a quick but horrible lunch (seafood risotto without visible seafood) on one of the squares give us a good idea of what this place is about. Tiny, charming and sturdy with stones.

Old Town Kotor, Montenegro: Pedestrian Only. Serbian Orthodox churches on this square. The mountains form a backdrop.

 

I am anxious though to get started on the drive inland. After all, this country has mountain as part of its name so we should try it. The afternoons are precious as the sun sets well before 6pm. This region is in the same time zone as Spain, meaning it has the opposite problem from what we experienced on the Camino walk last year - the sun rises and sets too early. Never have I valued the concept of Daylight Saving Time so much, which actually starts in the U.S. today.

We set out for Centenje in the mountains. If all goes well, it should take an hour and a half to reach this old capital. Alas, my portable wifi hot spot doesn't work in this country. Nor does the navigator in the car. Somehow we manage to find our way up and once the first of the 25 hairpin turns starts, we know we are on the right track. The numbering is a great idea as it gives a reference point like mile markers for a marathon. There is immediate gratification of the stupendous view of the Bay carved into the mountains.

 The view starts immediately upon ascent into the Montenegrin mountains.



A view from Hairpin Turn #25: the Kotor Bay

"I can't believe I live here AND get free food."

We reach Nyegusi, a small town of rugged charm which belies its historical importance as the home of a Montenegrin dynasty lasting more than two centuries. Leaving Nyegusi, I am looking for a good spot to photograph Mt Lovcen, a significant place as it is THE black mountain. A shepherd and his herd appear as if on cue to form a foreground. Thank you kindly. There is more hairy driving ahead. It is not very reassuring to start seeing phone numbers for auto repair services written on the stones forming the barrier to the cliff.  We give a very superficial look at Centenje, an old capital.

Nyegusi near Lovcen National Park

 

Mt. Lovcen, the Black Mountain, which gave this country its name. On top is a mausoleum (a faint man-made structure).

 It was a no brainer to choose a different route for return which descends to the Bay of Budvar. It was getting very dark so a cursory look at Budvar will have to do. It is just as well since it looks like a mass beach destination. We drive past a few casinos which exude nowhere near the opulence of Casino Royale. Daniel Craig isn't going to pop out. The James Bond script writers had a vivid imagination for associating this country with that movie.

Budva Bay at dusk

When our last planned stop for the day comes into view, a small island called Sveti Stefan, it is very dark. Again, just as well, since the island now being owned by the Aman Resorts means it is for your eyes only and no access.

Sveti Stefan, now owned by Aman Resorts, which means "keep out, unless you have $1000 minimum per night"

Back in Kotor, the town is deserted after all the day trippers from Dubrovnik have left. Dinner is superb at a restaurant tucked away in a corner.  The quality of food seems inversely proportional to the visibility of the establishment.

The following morning we set out early for a hike up to the fort overlooking Kotor and built mostly by Venetians but dating back to the ancient Illyrians. The steep climb is rewarded by a superior view. The sun is in a favorable position in the morning rather than the afternoon and I correctly guessed - I wish it was always the case.

Old Town Kotor as the climb starts on the town walls

Climbing higher: Old Town Kotor from the town walls

 

Fortress of St. John, built on the old fortification site of Illyrians

 

Kotor Bay from the top

 

Driving out, we stop at Perast, which seems to take a back seat to Kotor, but to be fair, with a promenade right on the water, it has unique charms. Plus the two tiny islands in front. We drive inland to cross the border into Bosnia-Herzegovina.

Perast on Kotor Bay

Two small islands facing Perast, one of which is artificial - which one?