Alaska 3: Katmai

This is a big day and probably the highlight of the trip.  I have a chance to check off a definite bucket list item: to witness bears in action during the July salmon run. I am concerned, however, that a flight to Katmai National Park may be cancelled or significantly delayed, as it's been raining continuously for 36 hours and it is not predicted to let up until the evening. A day trip is risky in this regard, but if the only lodge at Brooks Camp, one of the few prime sites in the world to see the brown bears catching salmon from the safety of a platform, is booked up 18 months in advance, a pricey day tour is the only choice for most people who don't want to camp. Fortunately the small plane from Anchorage takes off after a little delay and we transfer at a small town with the great name of King Salmon to a float plane to Brooks Camp. 

Thick clouds all the way from Anchorage to King Salmon, but at least the plane took off.

King Salmon to Katmai: a view from the float plane. The dark area on the left of the image is the smear of the propeller.

Float Plane landing at Brooks Camp, Katmai National Park: The ride is so cool I am ready to declare that if you have not been to a location where you can only reach by a float plane, you have not really experienced Alaska. 

After a 20 minute safety orientation at the National Park Ranger Station, we immediately walk down the path leading to the viewing platform. We are on the lookout for bears on this mile long trail, partly for our own protection. 

Brooks Camp: during orientation, I notice through the window a sow and four cubs casually walking by about 40 yards away. I only manage a quick out-of-focus shot, with the mother already obscured. 

Brooks Camp: it is still drizzling as we start walking toward the viewing platform.

Brooks Camp: This one-mile trail to the viewing platform is frequented by bears, so we keep the noise up not to surprise them.

This bear is only several yards away but we are already ascending the protected walkway leading to the platform.

Once we get to the platform, where an effective rotating system is in place, wow, it's everything I expected. It is a nature theater which showcases the interplay among the bear, the fish and the water.

There they are - bears in water. The platform is right in front of Brooks Falls where the main action is. 

Bear vs Salmon. It takes a while before we witness this bear catch a salmon.

It finally catches one.

Expertly removing the skin first...

I am calling this a salmon burrito stage.

Gulls are fighting for scraps.

Further down the river, not the choice location, is where young bears usually hang out.

On the far end of the falls, a big adult bear catches a salmon easily, with a gull seemingly cheering on.

It then walks up and goes into the woods. Repeating this numerous times, it may be a sow feeding its cubs but we barely know their behavior,

In the meantime, the bear in front of us is on a roll, consuming about 10 salmon in 30 minutes.

Now clutching its new catch tightly in its paw

Another bear caught in the moment of catching

A young bear manages to catch a salmon.

And quickly disappears to the safety of the woods.

After our one hour session at the main platform is over, we walk back to the lodge for lunch. The return flight to King Salmon is scheduled late enough we can squeeze in another viewing session and we happily walk back to the platform where there is now a half hour wait. 

As we start to descend the platform, we spot what looks a large cuddly teddy bear (which can kill of course). To paraphrase the ranger, it is in a postprandial coma, something some of us can relate to.

Only several yards away but in complete safety of the raised walkway.

Another bear walks right underneath the walkway.

Salmon galore in the stream. Even I should be able to fish here.

Returning after lunch, we wait our turn to go up to the main platform. But even in the unrestricted lower platform, there is plenty of action.

Out in the river the drama continues, and it will probably do so for the duration of the month, and every year. And the lucky tourists will go home as satiated as the bears at Brooks Falls during the salmon run.

We have had our lunch. Salmon are still jumping. Bears are still hunting. Life goes on at Brooks Falls.

A salmon seems so close to the bear's mouth. This is reminiscent of the classic photo of a salmon heading right into the wide open mouth of a bear.

Both of these bears, a different cast than this morning's, have caught a salmon.

Forget the bears - I could just watch the salmon action forever.

High jump, Somersault, Pirouette!

Synchronized salmon jumping

Salmonic Contortions

A new dominant bear appears and roams freely before heading down to the choicest spot.

After catching a salmon with ease, it uses the stone as a table or a cutting board.

Lens envy: plenty of very long lenses around

But who needs a long lens? The dominant bear has come so close it almost fills the frame.

And then it quickly disappears from the photographers.

In the meantime, some salmon seem to land above the falls, but who knows, they may get immediately swept down. An exercise in futility.

A new bear. Forget the salmon. It's bear vs water. 

Sadly it's time to go. A parting shot of a young bear downstream

Bear trails below and human walkways above

Back at the camp, enthusiasts are still looking for bears down the river with their binoculars. And they are finding plenty.

We get to ride a float plane again.

Katmai National Park from the float plane: pristine forests where no humans probably set foot for a long time

Time to say good bye to Katmai National Park

Alaska 2: Kenai

The drive from Anchorage south to Seward is entirely scenic: first the majestic Turnagain Arm, then a more intimate landscape with lush green mountains covered in fog and occasional rainbows. Is this Kenai or Kauai? The chilly air through the open car window lets you know you are still in Alaska. The roads are lined with the pink of the fireweed and scattered white of the common yarrow.

Driving on Seward Highway in Kenai Peninsula

The sleepy and attractive Seward is named after the Secretary of State responsible for purchasing Alaska from Russia for $7 million, which seems like a great bargain now. A Korean couple running a locally popular restaurant tells us they fell in love with Seward on their visit 20 years ago and decided to move from Seattle. Seward is a jumping off point for exploring Kenai Fjords National Park, and a boat cruise to Resurrection Bay and inlets further beyond is what most people do.

Seward: Gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park

Kenai Fjords National Park: The female skipper of our boat jokes, "the sea otter is the heaviest in the weasel family, except my ex." Sea otters are commonly seen in these waters now, which is a success story in conservation as they were hunted to near extinction for their fur, the densest among all animals. This guy glanced back at our boat, submerged under it and emerged on the other side.

Kenai Fjords National Park: Dall Porpoises playing alongside our boat

Kenai Fjords National Park: Puffins in flight

Kenai Fjords National Park: we are surrounded by several humpback whales, but to see them in action is often a waiting game.

Kenai Fjords National Park: We linger for a while at Aialik Glacier, our destination, to witness some decent calving, before turning around.

Kenai Fjords National Park: a kittiwake colony

Kenai Fjords National Park: Stellar sea lions on rocky outcroppings

Kenai Fjords National Park: a colony of common murres

Kenai Fjords National Park: this young humpback whale put on a show for 10 minutes

Kenai Fjords National Park: a puffin trying to get the attention of  the murre who does not seem interested.

Kenai Fjords National Park: this whale reveals just enough (the backswept dorsal fin) for us to identify it as the fin whale. It is the second largest mammal in the world after the blue whale.

Exiting Seward, we soon arrive at Exit Glacier (actually named because this was the terminus for the first party to cross the ice from Homer.) The constant drizzle is an excuse to abandon my ambitious plan to go a long hike and reach the mighty Harding Icefield that feeds all the glaciers in the area. We instead take a short guided walk to the edge of Exit Glacier. The passionate and informative National Park ranger, like all his colleagues, is an antithesis of the stereotype of an uninterested Federal employee. It is striking how fast the glacier has receded since we were here last. No further political comments here.

The rapidly receding Exit Glacier: this entire area in front was covered with ice on our last visit less then two decades.

In the whipping rain, we skip Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, stop briefly at Portage Visitor Center and head to Whittier, just to see what this funky town is about. Decidedly small and low-key, Whittier hosts cruises into Prince William Sound. We have a fond memory of a boat tour out of Valdez on the other side of the Sound on our last visit when we saw abundant marine life including orcas.

Whittier: the sight of a rundown building in pouring rain - somehow it seems appropriate. This is a town created during WWII and most of 200 residents live in one building. Fortunately it is the other high rise and not this one which an article calls a ruin porn.

The light at the end of the Whittier Tunnel: no, we are not risking our lives on a railroad track. This long tunnel (4.1 km) with a single one-way lane and alternating traffic shared by trains and cars is the only entrance (and perhaps fitting) way to enter this unusual town.

No, not a real bear, but just a decoration at Alyeska Resort, Girdwood. Real bear viewing will have to wait until tomorrow at Katmai National Park, weather permitting.