Croatia 5: Varazdin and Zagreb

I had not heard of Varazdin until recently. But who has? I added it to our itinerary when it made the list of 52 places to visit in 2014 by New York Times earlier this year, the only location in Croatia to be picked.  Given the nature of the list, NYT is obviously trying to stay ahead of the curve and I have to keep up! Varazdin is close to the border and it takes us about an hour to drive there from Ptuj, our last stop in Slovenia.  Our modest Pension is near the Old Town and has a parking lot adjoining the house, wonderful. 

We set out before the sun sets. I did not have high expectations for an earth-shattering traveler’s experience here, but the main square is lively with several streets lined with handsome old buildings leading to it. Prices are expectedly lower than more touristy places in Croatia, but to take a break from the Balkan fare, we opt for a Big Mac dinner which at over $6 is almost same price as the lower end restaurant meal.

 

Varazdin: Main Square

Varazdin: Main Square at dusk

The following morning we go to the Castle which for a change is not at an elevation. The sidewalk cafes are already occupied by people having breakfast. I can see potential here. In fact, they host a very popular festival called Spancirfest in late August plus a Baroque music festival.

 

Varazdin: on morning walk from hotel to Old Town

Varazdin: Castle

Breakfast with a view: Varazdin Castle, Gate, and an old moat

Varazdin: daffodils in Old Town

I happen upon a picture of an attractive castle and our innkeeper enthusiastically tells me how to get there – Trakoscan. We make an unusual spontaneous change to our itinerary and decide to drive there. 45 minutes later, I am able to the same view I had seen. It is another 45 minute drive from Zagreb, the capital of Croatia and our last stop on this trip.

Trokascan: Castle

Zagreb is a major city and of course we struggle with parking near the center. Fortunately local drivers, who as we have seen during the trip so far, are courteous. A kind taxi driver tells us to park anywhere inside the white line and not the yellow line. Ok, simple enough, the white equals the blue in Slovenia, I guess. We find a spot and otherwise the process is the same – get a ticket at a nearby machine and put it on the dash. A fish lunch is quick and efficient – big-city style. During lunch, on the street below, I notice a tribute to their native son, who is best known now as the popular car – Nicola Tesla.

Zagreb: Tribute to Tesla

The main square, Jelacic, the start of our self-guided tour, is a short walk away.  There is a lot of action around here.

Zagreb: a statue of the patriot Jelacic in the Square that bears his name

Zagreb: Croatians claim they invented the necktie.

Zagreb: daffodils are sold in the lively square Trg Petra Preradovica today in a national fundraiser for breast cancer

 

We take a short funicular ride up to Gradec, a historic hill district. I am amazed by its tranquility for an area so close to the center and housing such important sights.

 

Zagreb: View of Lower Town from the funicular taking us up to one of the original hill towns, Gradec

 

Zagreb: in the Gradec area, there is a Museum of... Broken Relationships! Notice the street sign in the old Austro-Hungarian style

 

Zagreb: In Gradec. Church of St. Mark with its colorful tile roof. Parliament Building on the right.

 

Zagreb: taking a coffee break on Tkalciceva St., which used to be a river

 

Zagreb: the Glagolitic alphabet inside the Cathedral.

Spending just an afternoon does not do justice to the Croatian capital but it is a fine way to finish our first ever tour through the Balkans.