Croatia 2: Split and Hvar Island

On the drive south from Sarajevo past Mostar, the Croatian border sneaks up on us sooner than expected, which is good since we want to get to Split early enough to do some exploration in daylight. Crossing the border is a breeze and this time they don't even check the "green card" which is proof of car insurance.

A two-lane road continues with enough slow moving traffic. After I pass a truck at the top of a hill, I get flagged down by a policeman waiting at the bottom. He states I passed illegally. I protest saying that I crossed the dotted line to pass. He says I started to move when the line still solid. I am tempted to say "Can we not split hairs, as I am in a rush to get to Split," but I don't.  He announces the fine is 500 Kuna, almost $100. I feign shock, and he responds, "Well, if you don't want to go to the court and are willing to pay right here, it will be 50% of that." He further assures me that my record back home will not be affected. So I pay cash and he says, after writing out a detailed ticket/receipt, "Keep this. If you get stopped again today for speeding or something, just show this and you will be OK." As we split, it is without a splitting headache, since it could have been a lot worse.

Soon a toll road starts so it turns out I made that contribution to the local police at the last possible opportunity. A 4-lane highway is in excellent shape. Reminiscing fondly on Bosnia, I am thinking it also needs a major artery like this, and in that respect Croatia is a step ahead. There are few cars on this route and 130 km/h takes us to Split earlier than planned. In the Old Town, cars are not allowed and we are supposed to park at a spot designated for our hotel several blocks away. Alas, it is already occupied by another car, but in the blink of an eye, the hotel has that car towed. While I am still trying to digest the model of efficiency that I just witnessed, a golf cart whisk us and our luggage away to our medieval-walled hotel. The location, facilities and especially the service of this boutique hotel are nothing short of superb. And all that for around $100. Try getting that kind of value in Western Europe. No wonder this place got nearly a perfect score on TripAdvisor.

A golf cart takes luggage to the hotel located in "People's Square" in the pedestrian zone in Split

The main attraction in Split, the Palace of Diocletian, a Roman Emperor, is just steps away. How ironic that Diocletian's Mausoleum is now a Catholic Church, considering that he brutally executed Christians.

Well-preserved cellars of Diocletian's Palace in Split

Inside Diocletian's Mausoleum, now a church: the small red marble columns on the pulpit were taken from Diocletian's sarcophagus. The granite columns and the relief at the base of the dome are original from the Roman times.

A local girl meets a headless sphinx from Egypt, one of 13 in Diocletian's Palace

Diocletian's Palace opens up to a broad promenade by the seashore, called Riva, which is the main hangout for locals and tourists, and gives Split a relaxing seaside resort feel.

Dusk falls on Split's waterfront (Riva), partly made up by Diocletian's Palace

We take a ferry to the island of Hvar the following morning. Originally I had planned to visit both of the famed Dalmatian Islands, Hvar and Korcula. But because connections are very limited in the off-season, I had to give Korcula a miss, although it was very tempting to visit that alleged birthplace of Marco Polo. That saves a significant amount of driving although a leisurely drive along Peljesac Peninsula would have appealed to wine connoisseurs which I am not (The Grgic Winery, a sister property of Grgich Hills in Napa Valley, is one of the wineries there).

Hvar is nearly deserted and there isn't going to be any celebrity sighting today. But it is curious how this place just shuts down during off-season and the water taxi guy I call does not even answer the phone. One of the most interesting places here, a Benedictine Convent is closed but they kindly open the door when we ring the bell. We feel like buying one of the lace items the nuns are famous for weaving using the thread made from agave leaves, but prices are exorbitant. We continue up the steps to reach the fort overlooking the town.

St. Stephen' Square in Hvar: in summer this place is filled.

Lacework by Benedictine nuns at Hvar: Croatian lace-making has been designated as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity

View of Hvar harbor from the fort: in the foreground is the agave plant which is used by nuns to make lace above



Mysterious and inviting:  Pokonji Dol, near Hvar town, containing a lighthouse. I could only manage a quick snapshot from a moving bus, regretting not hiking up to have a better view

Sunset seen from the ferry back from Hvar to Split