Bosnia-Herzegovina 3: Sarajevo

Sarajevo certainly has been put on the map a few times in the past.
The assassination of the heir apparent of the Austro-Hungarian Empire that triggered World War I in 1914. One hundred years ago. I don't remember that.
The Winter Olympics in 1984 - the perfection of Torvill and Dean ice dancing to Bolero. Thirty years ago. I do remember that.
And most recently and painfully,  the war and the longest siege in European history. 1992 - 1995. The world remembers that.

A detour to Medjugorje means we have to drive the last portion to Sarajevo in the dark, which isn't too bad even through the mountains.  Our hotel is right in Old Town, in the shadow of Gazi Husrev Bey Mosque. Dinner is at a tiny restaurant, a one-woman operation called "To Be or Not To Be." The crossed-out words refer to Sarajevans' determination to survive, just one of ubiquitous reminders of the war found here.

The following morning, we explore the neighborhood while waiting for our guide.

Old Town has a Turkish feel to it - more of the Ottoman influence than modern Turkey

 

True to its name: Pigeon Square is in the heart of Old Town

Coppersmiths' Street

The local guide we hired is a journalist who fought and lost his father in the war. No better way to learn about what's been going on in Sarajevo. What was supposed to be a two hour walking tour turns into an all day endeavor - the best value for an introduction to a city anywhere.

He discusses a range of topics from how the Ottomans have a longer lasting influence in this country than elsewhere in the Balkan (because the Bogomils initially embraced them) to the circumstances surrounding the war of course. But the most heartfelt topic is the firsthand account of the attack and siege.

A Sarajevo Rose refers to an explosion site that killed more than 5 people where bright paint was applied after the war for enduring memory. This one is in front of a Catholic church.

 



An apartment building near "Sniper's Alley" still bearing scars of the war.



 

Having burek for lunch with our guide

 

 

Men playing chess in front of an Serbian Orthodox church. A bit surreal maybe, but life is back to normal - almost.

 

Locals enjoying tea in Old Town



Latin Bridge at dusk: at the far end is the site of assassination of the Archduke Franz Ferdinand, the heir of the Hapsburgs in 1914

 

Latin Bridge from the other side at dusk. The assassination site is just to the left of the bridge. Our hotel is just a block away.

By now we are well aware that "Bosnian" refers to the nationality and "Bosniak" to the ethnic/cultural group, and similarly for "Croatian" and "Croat." When you throw in Serbs, it gets even more complicated. The Serbian aggressors during the war are often referred as the "cetniks," a derogatory term. I do teach our guide one thing - the Bosniak classification of kidney cysts, which he finds curious.

We finish the tour too late to go up to a hill for a panoramic view of the city at sunset. So we do that the following morning. The Tunnel Museum, at the site of the only conduit with the outside world during the siege will have to wait till next time.

Bijela Tabija (White Bastion) affords a fine view of Sarajevo. Our guide holds the map showing the guns and tanks positioned around the city during the siege.

Moving on to Split, Croatia. Heading south, we pass through Jablanica, among other towns, where Tito defeated the Nazis but now it is more famous for spit-grilled lamb barbeque.

Jablanica: south of Sarajevo, famous for split-grilled lamb barbeque