Bosnia-Herzegovina 2: Medjugorje

We change our plan and decide to visit Medjugorje today before going to Sarajevo rather than on our way back from the latter, as it will give us a little more time in the post-Sarajevo portion. I have always known about Medjugorje but was not aware of its exact location until I started to plan this trip, so it came as a pleasant surprise that I could pay a visit without committing too much time.  I feel a twinge of guilt making a last minute schedule change like this based on pure convenience, however, as many devout Christians no doubt plan months and years ahead their trip to Medjugorje, one of the most popular pilgrimage sites in the world, despite the lack of recognition by the Vatican to date. (A commission has recently completed an investigation, the results of which are not known yet.)

But after leaving Mostar, we first make a relatively short detour to Blagaj. It is significant as the place containing the source of Buna River but I am drawn to it mainly because I could not resist the evocative image of a cliff-side house that was formerly a whirling dervish monastery.

Approach to Blagaj: early blooms in an orchard with snowcapped Mt. Velez in the background

Blagaj: an old whirling dervish monastery at the Buna River source

Via a partly mountainous route, we arrive at Medjugorje about an hour later. Medjugorje is surprisingly quiet.
The church complex seems more modest than that in Fatima, Portugal and certainly far less hectic than the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe, Mexico. The surrounding town appears somewhat crude and disorganized. After a short exploration, we head up the hill to the site of the first apparitions, but not before an impersonal encounter at the church information desk of all places, which is unexpected since we have had nothing but warm reception elsewhere in Bosnia.

Medjugorje: St. James church, rather modest, predates the apparitions.

The right knee is supposed to be always wet, but since I touched the wrong knee, I will never know.



A walk up Apparition Hill: a rocky trail covered with sharp edges may be by design. We were not about to emulate many pilgrims who do this barefoot.

Site of the original apparitions at the top of the hill

"Blue Cross" at the foot of Apparition Hill

On our way back down the hill, we stop at one of the gazillion gift shops. It is being tended by a Mexican American from California, who has a rather interesting life story. Some years ago, he needed to change his life around. He heard about this place, packed up, came and never left. Recently his druglord cousin in Mexico was arrested which made international news. He could have led a similarly criminal life had he not moved here. I tell him that he absolutely made the right choice even though he is poor here by his own assessment and "has no insurance or retirement." He knows all the visionaries personally and directs us to some of their houses which are just around the corner. Imagine, some of them allegedly receive messages from Virgin Mary daily.