Croatia 4: Istria

Istria constitutes the northwestern-most portion of Croatia. Dotted with interesting small towns and bordering Slovenia, this peninsula is an obvious choice as our last destination in Croatia before entering Slovenia which lies to the north (and contains a northern strip of Istria itself.)

Leaving Plitvice Lakes National Park, we drive through but not stop at Otocac where the scars from being the battle front are still visible, Senj, where the route joins the coastal road, and Rijeca, a big non-descript down which serves to connect us the the Ypsilon, the y-shaped highway.

Istria is a lot of ground to cover especially on slow local roads so you have to pick and choose. Our first stop is Hum. It feels like we are going to the end of the world on a winding road. Its fame to claim is to be the smallest town in the world that has a mayor and an administrative office. In the 2001 survey it had 16 residents. It was probably a very quick survey. I ask a shopkeeper what the population is now and he says 25. Hmm, maybe Hum should now claim to have the fastest population growth also.

Hum: the alleged smallest town in the world

Our destination today is Rovinj on the Adriatic Sea. Coming over a hill, there it is!

First sighting of Rovinj

By now the routine is familiar.  Park the car outside the old town first. After parking, instead of calling the hotel, we drag the suitcases ourselves as Rovinj is pretty compact. We strolled down a few short blocks, and there it is, the Tito Square, where our hotel is located.

Rovinj harbor seen from Tito Square

Rovinj harbor view from our hotel room. Another free room upgrade, an off-season perk, which we are getting used to.

Main drag in Rovinj, leading up to the church. The town consists of curving, sloped and cobblestoned alleys

St Euphemia Church. The Venetian influence is palpable in Rovinj. The bell tower was unfortunately closed so we could not climb for a panorama. It is modeled after the Campanile in Venice. (Or is it after the one at U.C. Berkeley?)

Rovinj Sunset #1: From St. Euphemia Church

Rovinj Sunset #2

Rovinj Sunset #3

Rovinj Sunset #4

Rovinj: Houses right on the Adriatic Sea

Rovinj: Classic View in early morning

The following day we visit a series of towns in the interior of Istria. The Ypsilon along with appropriate use of local roads is the way to go. The only regret is not visiting the Brijuni Island where the Non-Aligned Movement was created by Tito,  Nasser, and Nehru - but we got places to go, people to see.

Groznjan is sort of an artists' colony. Zavrsje had been deserted but is now slowly coming back.

Groznjan: A tiny town with a height concentration of art galleries, deserted in the off-season

Zavrsje: a former ghost down is returning to life. On the left is a school renovated with EU funding.

Zavrsje: farmers returning

Zavrsje

Passing by Opatalj

View of Zubini, near Livade

This region is known for its truffles and Livade is the fungal capital. And of course I have to taste it.

Truffle pasta (fuzi) in Livade. The prized white truffles are not in season.

Finally we arrive at the mother of all Istrian hilltop towns,  Motovun. Was Mario Andretti born there knowing its name foretold a motor boom?

Walking up to top of Motovun

At top of Motovun. To the left was a guy taking off on a paraglider.

Motovun from the road