Romania 5: Transylvania 3 (Brasov, Bran, Sinaia)

Leaving Sibiu, we stop at ASTRA Museum, which has a fantastic collection of traditional dwellings in a spacious woodsy area. We ride in a horse carriage but this would be a great place to walk around. Next is a brief stop at a glassmaking factory before heading on to Brasov.

 

A horse carriage ride through ASTRA open-air museum near Sibiu

Men hard at work at a glass factory

Brasov, the largest of the Saxon towns in Transylvania, certainly benefits from its proximity to Bucharest, and equally importantly for the tourist, to the "Dracula Castle" at Bran. But it is an attractive city in its own right. The city name is proudly displayed a la Hollywood on top of the green hill that steeply rises right behind the old town.

Brasov: the Hollywood style sign on the hill was placed after the prior name honoring Stalin was dropped.

Brasov: Main Square

 

Brasov: Pedestrian district

We get to the Bran Castle right after they open at 9am and have the place to ourselves briefly until big crowds predictably appear, which number over half a million a year. The vaunted façade that has helped the identification of this 14th century structure as the Dracula Castle, although the actual connection to Vlad Tepes is quite tenuous, was alas on the other side from where we entered, and by the time we got around to that side, the sun was high, surely having dispatched any Dracula spell from the scene.

Bran Castle: maybe this back side evokes a little bit of horror mystery even in daylight

 

Bran Castle from the courtyard

 

 

 

Bran Castle: looking out to the surrounding countryside

  

Bran Castle: the evocative facade

 I read the news that the castle has been recently put up for sale again by the descendants of the Hapsburg Royal Family, who did a good job of redecorating the interior apparently in a short amount of time after reclaiming it in 2006. If you have $80 million to spare, this would be an awesome buy, or at least a nice toy to impress your kids with. This is a second coincidence after the news that broke when we first entered Transylvania that Prof. Florescu, the first to link Bram Stoker's story to Vlad Tepes, had just died.

Among the myriad souvenir shops, we stopped at a small cheese stand where the owner kept offering different pieces to try, which became an impromptu cheese tasting session. Another treat was the introduction to delicious snacks, Kurtos and Langos, which are probably some of the very few Hungarian-origin items Romanians do not mind enjoying.



Bran: generous cheese seller



Bran: Kurtos (Hungarian snack)



Bran: no, this is not your mother's pizza - it's the Hungarian snack, Lantos. Any resemblance is purely accidental.

Our last stop before leaving Romania is the mountain resort, Sinaia. The green hilly resort town with big ostentatious homes is nothing like Mt. Sinai, however. The center piece is the Peles Castle, built as a summer residence of the all important King Carol I. It is reached by a pleasant 15 minute stroll up the hill. A European castle is a castle is a castle, but the holdings at this castle/palace are quite impressive. This was a classy way to end our wonderful whirlwind tour through Romania.

Sinaia: even a boomerang is shaped like a cross in Romania.

Sinai: First glimpse of Peles Castle

Sinai: Peles Castle

Sinaia: an ascent toward Peles Castle

 

More Peles Castle

And more (clearly I like this Peles Castle!)

Stepping into Peles Castle



Peles Castle: Armory Hall

 

Peles Castle: Music Hall

Peles Castle: Venetian Chandelier

Peles Castle: Dining Hall

Balkan Handover: we transfer from the Romanian Mercedes van (black) to the Bulgarian Mercedes van (white) at the border. 

 

 

Romania 4: Transylvania 2 (Biertan, Sibiu)

Gypsies, to those of us who are not familiar with them, are a mystery or a curiosity. But in Southern Europe, they seem to endure a status as an unwanted group. Romanians seem particularly bothered by the wide-spread misconception that Romania is where the gypsies originated, although it is now generally accepted that they migrated from Northern India more than a thousand years ago. The fact that gypsies are sometimes called Roma is probably responsible for the confusion. Romanians would rather be associated with Rome than the gypsies. I personally find it quite puzzling how a certain group can remain so socially unintegrated after more than a millennium.

The itinerary our tour company provided includes "a unique opportunity to meet a Gypsy family in their own home, for an authentic cultural exchange," which may sound a bit pompous or even comical to those who have had negative views on them. But I am looking forward to the experience, at least to increase my understanding. We drive to a town with a sizable gypsy section not far from Sighisoara. We start to see large unfinished houses and women of darker skin and colorful skirts. The head of the family is waiting at the entrance adorned with brassware, which is apparently the craft of choice for this village. He takes us to his modest workshop, and the lady shows us the chicks and the sheep they raise as well as the garden, from which she picks radishes to offer us. They even bring out their new multi-layer female costume to put on us. We purchase a small copper cup as an appreciation for their genuine hospitality and leave with a positive feeling.



Visiting a gypsy family near Sighisoara



This family has unusually light skin.



The metal workshop. The TV is playing a Korean soap opera.

Getting ready to clothe us.

We then make a brief stop at Biertan, where the imposing church looks over the town and people seem excited about the upcoming visit by Prince Charles, who has apparently shown much interest in this country especially in the context of promoting green.

Biertan church

Biertan: Church and town below

Biertan church: a massive lock

Biertan: The birthrate in Romania remains low despite a healthy stork population, casting doubt on the legend.

The Communist-era ice cream is making a comeback, and we had to have it.

Any opportunity to interact with locals is always welcome but our guide does one better by arranging a home-cooked meal at his cousin's house on the outskirts of Sibiu. An excellent hearty lunch next to their animal den - precious.

 

Home-made meal near Sibiu

 

Chicken noodle soup, Romanian style

 

Home-made cake

 

Their 12-year-old daughter showing us how to peek into the neighbor's animal den. A peacock virtually fills up the space.

Sibiu has everything. Attractive squares and cobblestone streets, inviting sidewalk cafes, a well-preserved fort, an important position in the Romanian history, and easy-going and friendly people. I am deciding this is one of my favorite cities in all of Europe.

Sibiu: flower market

A man obviously overjoyed to be handling flowers all day

Sibiu: Main Square

Sibiu: Brukenthal Museum

Sibiu: Man Square

Sibiu: the green just outside the fort provides a resting space.

Sibiu: the Holy Trinity Church reminds you of? Yes, Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, which was the inspiration.

Sibiu: Main Square seen from Council Tower

Sibiu: Liar's Bridge

Sibiu: Best papanasi to date, although the sample size is small (4)

 

 

 

 

Romania 3: Transylvania 1 (Sighisoara)

After driving up a while into Carpathian Mountains, we reach Borgo Pass. This is where Moldavia ends and Transylvania starts. The 360-degree vista from the top of the mountain pass is nice, and a hotel in view is supposed to be the old residence of none other than Vlad Tepes, aka the Impaler, aka Count Dracula. Yes, we are entering the Dracula country and immediately being greeted by what was Jonathan Harker's destination. Not being huge fans of the vampire stories, we do not risk being disappointed (or having a heart attack like someone did) at Hotel Castle Dracula, but move on toward our own ultimate destination for the day - Sighisoara.

Approaching Borgo Pass (with a big cross) from Moldavia



A view toward Transylvania from Borgo Pass in Carpathian Mountains

Hotel Castle Dracula on the site Vlad III resided

Before reaching Sighisoara, we stop at Tagu Mures, whose population is an interesting (and previously problematic no doubt) 50-50 mixture of Romanians and Hungarians. The Culture Palace was built just before WWI, when the city was under the Hapsburg rule.

Tagu Mures: a remarkably preserved Communist-ear car made of cardboard

Tagu Mures: Cultural Palace on right, one of the last Hapsburg buildings

Cultural Palace, Tagu Mures: Stained glass in Hall of Mirrors

 

Red onion and potatoes sold at roadside

Sighisoara - "so pretty it should be arrested," exclaims the Lonely Planet guide. Pretty close. Sighisoara is tiny, sloped, cobble-stoned, and quite charming. It may not be the most beautiful small town in Europe, but it's up there. The Dracula theme continues - just two doors down from our perfectly located hotel is the birthplace of Vlad the Impaler, which is now a popular restaurant. We pay our dues by having lunch there. The room where the Count was supposedly born is distinctly tacky, which charges the admission of 5 lei (a little less than $2).

Sighisoara: A stunning first view from our hotel room window

 

Sighisoara: our hotel (white) is two buildings over from the birthplace of the Impaler (yellow)

 

Birthplace of Dracula, now a restaurant

Casa Dracula: legendary birthplace-turned restaurant

I am not fazed by Dracula rising from the coffin in the room of his birth

It is a delight to stroll up and down the old town. Climbing the tower and the covered staircase leading to the top of the town,  I can see why this is a favorite place among most American visitors according to our guide.



Sighisoara: Tower

 

Sighisoara: View from the Tower

Sighisoara: View from the Tower

Sighisoara: View from the Tower



Sighisoara: covered staircase

 

Sighisoara



Sighisoara: Vlad is a common sighting here

Sighisoara