To Travel Is To Live: Romania 4: Transylvania 2 (Biertan, Sibiu)

Gypsies, to those of us who are not familiar with them, are a mystery or a curiosity. But in Southern Europe, they seem to endure a status as an unwanted group. Romanians seem particularly bothered by the wide-spread misconception that Romania is where the gypsies originated, although it is now generally accepted that they migrated from Northern India more than a thousand years ago. The fact that gypsies are sometimes called Roma is probably responsible for the confusion. Romanians would rather be associated with Rome than the gypsies. I personally find it quite puzzling how a certain group can remain so socially unintegrated after more than a millennium.

The itinerary our tour company provided includes "a unique opportunity to meet a Gypsy family in their own home, for an authentic cultural exchange," which may sound a bit pompous or even comical to those who have had negative views on them. But I am looking forward to the experience, at least to increase my understanding. We drive to a town with a sizable gypsy section not far from Sighisoara. We start to see large unfinished houses and women of darker skin and colorful skirts. The head of the family is waiting at the entrance adorned with brassware, which is apparently the craft of choice for this village. He takes us to his modest workshop, and the lady shows us the chicks and the sheep they raise as well as the garden, from which she picks radishes to offer us. They even bring out their new multi-layer female costume to put on us. We purchase a small copper cup as an appreciation for their genuine hospitality and leave with a positive feeling.

Visiting a gypsy family near Sighisoara

This family has unusually light skin.

The metal workshop. The TV is playing a Korean soap opera.

Getting ready to clothe us.

We then make a brief stop at Biertan, where the imposing church looks over the town and people seem excited about the upcoming visit by Prince Charles, who has apparently shown much interest in this country especially in the context of promoting green.

Biertan church

Biertan: Church and town below

Biertan church: a massive lock

Biertan: The birthrate in Romania remains low despite a healthy stork population, casting doubt on the legend.

The Communist-era ice cream is making a comeback, and we had to have it.

Any opportunity to interact with locals is always welcome but our guide does one better by arranging a home-cooked meal at his cousin's house on the outskirts of Sibiu. An excellent hearty lunch next to their animal den - precious.

Home-made meal near Sibiu

Chicken noodle soup, Romanian style

Home-made cake

Their 12-year-old daughter showing us how to peek into the neighbor's animal den. A peacock virtually fills up the space.

Sibiu has everything. Attractive squares and cobblestone streets, inviting sidewalk cafes, a well-preserved fort, an important position in the Romanian history, and easy-going and friendly people. I am deciding this is one of my favorite cities in all of Europe.