Scotland 5: Inverness

Looking back at Isle of Skye after returning to mainland via Skye Bridge (right), the construction of which was controversial

Plockton: near the town entrance, our friends, Highlands cows, are spotted again. Now I am adding you to a nice scene - my apologies for using you as a negative example last time!

Plockton: a pleasant enough sea-side town, but some people think this is the most charming small town in Scotland according to Conde Nast Traveler?

Plockton: Duncraig Castle in view 

Plockton: lunch at Plockton Hotel - local langoustines which are decent but Quique Dacosta had ruined any prawn type dish for us.

Eilean Donan Castle: everyone seems to stop here on the way to Loch Ness or Inverness.

Fort Augustus: a gateway to Loch Ness with a view of the locks over Caledonian Canal built by Thomas Tedford

Fort Augustus: the bridge (white) over the canal has just swung open (horizontally rotating rather than going up and down like a draw bridge) to allow passage of a boat.

Fort Augustus: a pretty town in its own right

Fort Augustus:  Caledonia Canal, which runs from Fort William to Inverness, drains to Loch Ness here.

Fort Augustus: walking toward Loch Ness, we pass an old Benedictine Abbey. As attractive as its facade is, it had been mired in an abuse scandal and ceased to function. Like many churches in this area, it has been converted and is now an apartment complex.

Fort Augustus: finally a view of Loch Ness. We are on the southern end. No Nessie today!

Inverness: arriving here, the de facto capital of the Highlands, at dinner time. Restaurant Number 27 is near our B&B. Developing a taste for haggis, neeps and tatties. With Caledonia Best, a local beer.

Inverness: we follow the nice sound of bagpipes to the Castle grounds right across the street from the restaurant. A "pipe band" (an ensemble of bagpipers and drummers) is rehearsing for a competition in Glasgow. A view of the city from the top.

Inverness: all the B&Bs in Scotland have been impeccable, typically run by a hard-working and enthusiastic couple. Blueberry and apple porridge (oatmeal).

Inverness: a pedestrian area in this unassuming town

Inverness: a view of River Ness from Old High Church grounds, a site of execution of Jacobites. The little suspension bridge ("Bouncy Bridge") was built during the Victorian era, which was a boom time for this town.

Inverness: nearby is the oldest house in town. It is now partly an Indian restaurant (actually run by Bangladeshis), our lunch spot. It looks like a white tablecloth restaurant but is reasonably priced. Overall Scotland does not seem very expensive by European standards. On the left is a popular bar, Hootananny.

Inverness: the Castle seen over the main bridge

Inverness:  "Ladies Walk" along the bank of River Ness. It is actually part of the Great Glen Way walking route from Fort William.

Inverness: a great blue heron taking flight along River Ness. The Cathedral on the other bank.

Culloden: this assertion is probably not an exaggeration. Just outside Inverness, this is a site of a decisive battle that put an end to the Jacobite rising led by Prince Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie) in 1746.

Culloden Battlefield: the tour guide here gives a vivid blow-by-blow account of the battle that lasted barely an hour. The government froce front line is where the red flags are and the Jacobite line is to the left (now shown). Reminds me of the site of a trench combat in Gallipoli. 

Culloden: years after the battle, commemorative markers went up where soldiers on both sides who fell were quickly buried. 

Cawdor Castle: since we skipped Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness, we check out this one a short drive away from Culloden. Fields of rapeseed flowers along the way.

Cawdor Castle: entrance

Cawdor Castle: Thane of Cawdor is the title given to Macbeth in Shakespeare's play but this castle was built centuries later.

Cawdor Castle: if this castle looks lived in, that's because the Dowager Countess of the Campbell Clan still lives here. The Tartan pattern for the visitors' path.

Inverness: back here we have a simple pub dinner where Scottish folk music is played nightly. The man is singing "Skye Boat Song." Many locals are singing along. This song was apparently featured in the TV series, Outlander. Not only do I like that tune but it is an appropriate way to end our tour of Scotland. Bonnie Prince Charlie fled Culloden to Outer Hebrides, then to Skye with Flora MacDonald's help, and then finally to France and Italy. We are now leaving Scotland for England.