Spain 2: Valencia

Valencia: after a three-hour train ride south from Barcelona, we arrive here at mid-day. Nice that the center is closed to the traffic on Sunday. We head straight to ...

Casa Carmela, Valencia: at 1pm, we are the first customers at this venerable institution (the dining room would be filled in due time). It is only open for lunch, like most paella restaurants here. Paella Valenciana needs to be ordered in advance, but it still takes 20 minutes to arrive. In the meantime there is an appetizer of pimiento with cod.

Casa Carmela: here it is, Paella Valenciana! Unlike the myriad versions across the world, the original recipe calls for chicken, rabbit and snails, among others. The pan is huge but very shallow, so it is actually the right amount for two.

Casa Carmela: the word is Socarrat! The crust that forms on the bottom is a measure of how well paella was cooked. The rice is al dente anyway (excuse the Italian), but I totally understand why this is valued.

Casa Carmela: it is wood burning under the paella pans. This place has the feel of a family-run establishment but it is a big operation with multiple dining rooms feeding many families. 

Valencia: a view of the Cathedral complex from Plaza de la Reina. Orange trees are ubiquitous here. Although the "Valencia orange" did not originate from here (but in Southern California), it was indeed named after this city.

Valencia Cathedral: built in the 14th century, this is no ordinary chapel. In the center of the alabaster alter is ...

The Holy Grail: well, of course not every one is going to believe it is the real thing, but this has been considered one of the top contenders. (I could also check out Rosslyn Church near Edinburgh in a just a few days, but I think one site visit during a given trip is enough!)

The Holy Grail: "Only the worthy can find the Grail, Leigh."  - Prof. Langdon, The Da Vinci Code

Valencia: I should normally handle this easily, but I am huffing a little bit after climbing 207 steps to the top of the Cathedral Tower. This is supposedly the third largest city in Spain but remains under the radar.

Plaza Redona, Valencia: an oxymoronic circular square. A short distance away is ...

Horchataria Santa Catalina: Valencia is supposedly the birthplace of Horchata, or spelled here Orxata. This concoction is quite enjoyable with a slightly thicker texture, more flavor and a bit of aftertaste compared to the rice variety typically available in Mexican establishments in the U.S.

Panorama Restaurant, Valencia: the name says it all. Trying to sample as many varieties of paella as possible during a short visit here, but most traditional paella places are closed for dinner, so we might as well pick a place that offers a great view. Arriving at 8:30pm, we get the first table by the window.

Panorama, Valencia: the sun doesn't set until 9pm. A complimentary gazpacho soup is a good choice today as the weather finally warmed up into the 70's.

Panorama, Valencia: paella with squid and green onions, among other things. Not bad, although it does not have the authentic feel of Casa Carmela's Paella Valenciana. But it's hard to beat this view.

The City of Arts and Sciences, Valencia: we have time to stop by this showpiece of a complex before driving south to Denia. An impressive series of architectural gems.

City of Arts and Sciences, Valencia: crowded with families on a weekday, perhaps because some people are off on May Day

Quique DaCosta, Denia: a pleasant 90 minute drive south to one of the top restaurants in Spain. 

Quique Dacosta, Denia: first courses are served in the lounge. Chef Dacosta (in black pants) across the room speaking to guests.

Quique Dacosta, Denia: in the main dining room, a mystery item is waiting on our table...

Quique Dacosta, Denia: lifting the cover reveals a local product which the chef is proud to serve. Simply the best prawn I have ever tasted!

Quique Dacosta, Denia: the meal is served in six "acts" and this second act is a bewildering array of stuff I can barely remember, but it does include cumin papadum with ling roe on top.

Quique Dacosta, Denia: lemon fish (beneath the foam, firm texture) appropriately served with a lemon theme reflecting the citrus-richness of this area

Quique Dacosta, Denia: dried tomato being crushed

Quique Dacosta: a dehydrated kale leaf hides sweetbread and oyster

Quique Dacosta: a dessert, "Strange Flowers" is in the category of too-pretty-to-eat.

Quique Dacosta: time for some theatrics - a dessert course "moss" (matcha cake with pistachio). 

Albufera: on the way back to Valencia, we stop in this lagoon area which is supposedly the birthplace of paella. Locally available products - short grain rice, chicken, rabbit, and snails - are what got it started. Restaurants in nearby El Palmar are closed for dinner and we skip a boar ride, but I am glad to have the opportunity for this pilgrimage! 

Mercado Central, Valencia: this market is in a stately building and features many stalls selling fresh fruits and vegetables.

La Lonja de la Seda, Valencia: seen behind the paella pans, this "Silk Exchange" is a mercantile exchange from medieval times and earned the UNESCO Heritage designation as an impressive civil Gothic structure.

La Lonja de la Seda: this complex originating from the 15th century is a testament to the commercial prowess of Valencia during medieval times under the Crown of Aragon.

La Lonja: this "Contract Hall" is the centerpiece of the Silk Exchange. Latin inscriptions on the walls (dark bands) are a sort of the code of ethics for merchants, which would serve well their modern counterparts!

La Pepica, Valencia: one for the road! We head to this huge place for one more paella meal before heading to the airport. On the walls are celebrity memorabilia featuring past visitors including Queen Sofia and Hemingway, who mentioned this restaurant in his last published book, Dangerous Summer.

La Pepica: we take a table looking out on the beach and order their signature paella featuring peeled seafood, originally created for the local artist Joachin Sorolla (after whom the Valencia train station is named also). It's a small sample size but the winner in my book is Casa Carmela's Paella Valenciana!