Sunday, May 7, 2017

Scotland 2: Stirling, Trossachs, Loch Lomond

A field of rapeseed flowers on the outskirts of Edinburgh. Heading toward Stirling. Driving on the left side of the road takes some getting used to, but fortunately the weather continues to be perfect.

Falkirk: mover over, Panama Canal! This lock consists of a giant rotating wheel that transports boats up and down between two canals. We are about to board the aptly named Archimedes on the lower level, soon to be put in one of the large gondolas (round holes). It's been called the nautical Ferris Wheel but to me it's like a slip-ring CT technology, as the black wheels on the bottom of the gondola continuously slip to maintain the upright position of the boats. 
Falkirk: it takes only 5 minutes to get up to the upper canal. Because of the Archimedes principle, the two gondolas are perfectly balanced regardless of the weight of the boats occupying them, so only a small amount of energy is used to operate this thing. Scottish ingenuity!

Falkirk: these two large steel horse heads, called the Kelpies, honor the horse use tradition of Scotland with a mythical flavor. They are supposedly the largest equine sculptures in the world and who would challenge that?

Stirling: the Castle here, impressively sitting atop a volcanic mound, has witnessed important battles in Scottish history.
Stirling: Castle entrance. The pockmarks on the right turret are from the Oliver Cromwell attacks.
Stirling: River Forth and the Firth of Forth region lie to the East.

Stirling Castle: Great Hall built by James IV, unusually colored in yellow. Not a cloud in the sky today.

Stirling Castle: inside the Great Hall, there are very few historical artifacts left. But it can certainly be used for a party like today. (Beauty and the Beast?)

Stirling Castle: in Queen's Inner Hall a guide in period costume explains that the originals of these tapestries are in the Met in NYC.

Stirling Castle: in Queen's Bed Chamber this bed was for show only and the Queen (Mary of Guise, the mother of Mary, Queen of Scots) actually slept somewhere else.

Stirling Castle: will the real Braveheart stand up? Unlike in the movie, it was the nickname given to Robert the Bruce (statue on right), and not William Wallace (monument on left).
Stirling Castle: looking out toward the battlefield of Bannockburn, a site of major victory over the English by Robert Bruce in 1314

Glenneagles: heading to our restaurant located inside this golf resort, we bump into a major wedding with an impressive row of taxis waiting to pick up the guests.

Gleneagles: another party going on next to the restaurant. Later nice live bagpipe music would pipe into the restaurant.

Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles: an interesting vegetarian canape with miner's lettuce

Andrew Fairlie: another fine snack based on potatoes

Andrew Fairlie: excellent mackerel dish

Andrew Fairlie: a nice vessel-shaped vessel! The lobster inside is tasty and the dinner here probably justifies its reputation but the pacing between courses was so slow it lasted close to four hours. Very tiring but very well served by the cheerful and genuinely caring staff.

So glad we are staying at this B&B instead of the Gleneagles at a fraction of a cost. A modest but attractive Georgian house is maintained impeccably by the hostess. A full Scottish breakfast is served overlooking the garden.

Golden finches in the garden at our B&B

Lach Katrine: driving through the Trossachs, we reach this lake which inspired Sir Walter Scott to write Lady of the Lake. We skip a ride on a boat named after the writer, but notice the aptly named private boat ahead, "McGregor" (white boat with red stripes on top) as this is Rob Roy country also.

Loch Achray: the Trossachs Hotel

Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond: a rare time the Googlemap let us down. After being directed to the middle of highway (A82), we struggle and arrive at lunch more than a half hour late. Even though it is past 2pm, their normal closing time, they still take our order cheerfully and bring out the canapes promptly. All is well with the world again.

Martin Wishart: the "clam cracker" snack is excellent. 

Martin Wishart: the restaurant is located within Cameron House Hotel (now I know!) on the shores of Loch Lomond, and our table affords an excellent view. What could have been a disaster lunch has been saved!

Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond: Orkney Island scallop with chives sorbet

Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond: an exellent three-course weekend lunch for little over 30 pounds with many extras is one of the best deals you will find anywhere. Our server from Romania was excellent. (What would she think of the Brexit?)

Loch Lomond: we take a short stroll along the southwestern shore. Time to play "Bonnie banks of Loch Lomond."  The John McDermott version available on Youtube is the best. "Oh, you take the high road and I take the low...And I'll be in Scotland before you..." I liked this song before I came here, and even though we have a fleeting visit to these shores, I will continue to enjoy the song and cherish this moment. 


Inveraray: a tidy enough town, where the main attraction in town is the old jailhouse (right) at the end of the main drag

Inveraray: but just outside town is this castle which was featured in Downton Abbey as the fictional "Duneagle Castle."

On the way to Oban


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