Scotland 4: Isle of Skye

Castle Stalker: leaving Oban, ultimately headed to Isle of Skye, we first stop for a castle view from the "customer-only" cafe parking lot. The cafe itself is a good place to stalk this castle on a little island over tea and scone.

Glencoe: just a short hike here in the Three Sisters area

Glencoe: Glen Etive is one of the filming locations for Skyfall. Just minutes before reaching this spot, a mishap would befall me - an oncoming bus crosses over the center line and as I swerve to avoid it, the far side of my rental car is scratched by stone walls. These lanes are narrow and with virtually no shoulder and people are driving too fast. Luckily we are not hurt and I have better appreciation for those car maneuvers in the Bond movies.

Glencoe Village: rhododendrons and azaleas are in full bloom in this lovely single-street town. We run into a friendly man, who upon finding out we are from California, tells us that he befriended a Californian who used to visit here and stay just down the street in the 60's. This person would later found a small company called ... Patagonia. We share admiration for Mr. Chouinard for his stance on environmental issues.  

Glencoe Village:  haggis panini with cheese for quick lunch at Glencoe Cafe

Mallaig to Armadale: to catch this car-ferry from mainland to Isle of Skye, we zip through Fort William with a quick glance at Ben Nevis (no photo), and do not stop in Glenfinnan, known 1) as the initial base for Bonnie Prince Charlie's Jacobite uprising (no photo for the monument) and 2) for the Jacobite Steam Train likened to Hogwarts Express (no photo for the viaduct). As someone said, we are in a Harry and have no time to Potter around.

Mallaig to Armadale ferry: after only a half hour of sailing, we arrive at Isle of Skye.

Kinloch Lodge: a splurge on Isle of Skye. Originally a hunting lodge for the MacDonald clan who also own a castle in Armadale, it offers seclusion and luxury. Hello, quince flowers.

Kinloch Lodge, Isle of Skye: a nice ground-level view from the room window 

Kinloch Lodge, Skye: hmm, are we in Scotland, maybe?

Kinloch Lodge: a gourmet dinner included in the stay starts with canapes in a drawing room.

Kinloch Lodge: then move into the restaurant. Celery veloute with Strathdon blue (a Highland cheese) soupcon. Rosemary and garlic bread. Nice choices of butter, but then again I've never met a butter I didn't like.

Kinloch Lodge: the main dessert is "apple" (fake of course) crumble parfait (French version).

Kinloch Lodge: then we withdraw into the drawing room for petit fours and tea.

Kinloch Lodge: this drawing room, like other rooms, is filled with the MacDonald Clan memorabilia. This resort was opened by Godfrey James MacDonald, and his wife Lady Claire, a well-known chef and food writer. He is aka 8th Lord MacDonald of MacDonald and 34th hereditary Chief of Clan Donald!

Kinloch Lodge: sorry to leave after just one night but it's time to move on further into Isle of Skye. 

Portree: the largest town on Isle of Skye. The driving tour of Trotternish Peninsula starts.

Isle of Skye: the needle-like rock is Old Man of Storr.

Kilt Rock, Skye: self-explanatory

Quiraing, Skye: by now I've got the hang of using frequent pull-outs on a one-track road, but it is still a challenge to go up to this spot and park. I can't imagine what a mayhem it might be on a busy summer day. But the scenery is as advertised!

Quiraing, Skye: sense of vast ruggedness. A black-face baby lamb looks entirely comfortable.

Quiraing, Skye: starting a hike on a dramatic trail

Quiraing, Skye

Skye: Outer Hebrides looms beyond the north coast of Trotternish Peninsula

Kilmuir Cemetery, Skye: Grave of Flora MacDonald, who supposedly rescued Bonnie Prince Charlie after he fled the battle at Culloden. Samuel Johnson's words are on the epitaph: "Her name will be mentioned in history, and if courage and fidelity be virtues, mentioned with honour." 

Uig, Skye: a ferry terminal in view. South of here, instead of returning to Portree we leave Trotternish Peninsula and head west for an overnight stay.

Dunvegan: a simple but tidy B&B in isolation has the whole sea lagoon to itself.

Three Chimneys: as if Dunvegan wasn't remote enough, we drive further west to this locally popular restaurant. (Watercress veloute with cottage cheese to start.)

And keep going further west toward Neist Point Lighthouse.

Neist Point Lighthouse: As the lighthouse comes into view, photo-bombing! Of course I don't mind it and in fact focus on the sheep. The trail seen on left leads down to the lighthouse, westernmost point on Isle of Skye, but I am not going down since the sunset will be better from up here. 

Niest Lighthouse: see, these photographers, perched on the cliff, waiting for the sun to go down, know better than to go down to the lighthouse themselves.

Neist Point Lighthouse: a layer of clouds low on the horizon makes this moment, about 20 minutes before the actual sunset, a point of maximum redness. We head back to our B&B, while some die-hard photographers still remain on this windy site.

Glendale: it looks like we stumbled upon a lamb kindergarten on the way back to our B&B. 

Dunvegan: as expected the breakfast at our B&B is excellent.

Dunvegan: the Highlands breakfast which includes haggis and Stornoway black pudding

Whiskey factory tour: we have time to do one thing this morning before leaving Isle of Skye. Either Dunvegan Castle or Talisker Distillery. Sorry, MacCleod Clan, for not visiting your castle this time. We are taking the obligatory whiskey tour instead.

Talisker Whiskey factory: the excellent tour ends with malt whiskey tasting.

Sligachan: Cuillin range in view. First time in Scotland when we have substantial clouds. Good-bye, blue sky, for now. And good-bye, Skye!