Thursday, May 22, 2014

Romania 3: Transylvania 1 (Sighisoara)

After driving up a while into Carpathian Mountains, we reach Borgo Pass. This is where Moldavia ends and Transylvania starts. The 360-degree vista from the top of the mountain pass is nice, and a hotel in view is supposed to be the old residence of none other than Vlad Tepes, aka the Impaler, aka Count Dracula. Yes, we are entering the Dracula country and immediately being greeted by what was Jonathan Harker's destination. Not being huge fans of the vampire stories, we do not risk being disappointed (or having a heart attack like someone did) at Hotel Castle Dracula, but move on toward our own ultimate destination for the day - Sighisoara.

Approaching Borgo Pass (with a big cross) from Moldavia


A view toward Transylvania from Borgo Pass in Carpathian Mountains

Hotel Castle Dracula on the site Vlad III resided


Before reaching Sighisoara, we stop at Tagu Mures, whose population is an interesting (and previously problematic no doubt) 50-50 mixture of Romanians and Hungarians. The Culture Palace was built just before WWI, when the city was under the Hapsburg rule.

Tagu Mures: a remarkably preserved Communist-ear car made of cardboard
Tagu Mures: Cultural Palace on right, one of the last Hapsburg buildings

Cultural Palace, Tagu Mures: Stained glass in Hall of Mirrors

 

Red onion and potatoes sold at roadside


Sighisoara - "so pretty it should be arrested," exclaims the Lonely Planet guide. Pretty close. Sighisoara is tiny, sloped, cobble-stoned, and quite charming. It may not be the most beautiful small town in Europe, but it's up there. The Dracula theme continues - just two doors down from our perfectly located hotel is the birthplace of Vlad the Impaler, which is now a popular restaurant. We pay our dues by having lunch there. The room where the Count was supposedly born is distinctly tacky, which charges the admission of 5 lei (a little less than $2).

Sighisoara: A stunning first view from our hotel room window

 
Sighisoara: our hotel (white) is two buildings over from the birthplace of the Impaler (yellow)
 
Birthplace of Dracula, now a restaurant


Casa Dracula: legendary birthplace-turned restaurant

I am not fazed by Dracula rising from the coffin in the room of his birth


It is a delight to stroll up and down the old town. Climbing the tower and the covered staircase leading to the top of the town,  I can see why this is a favorite place among most American visitors according to our guide.


Sighisoara: Tower
 
Sighisoara: View from the Tower

Sighisoara: View from the Tower

Sighisoara: View from the Tower



Sighisoara: covered staircase
 
Sighisoara


Sighisoara: Vlad is a common sighting here

Sighisoara
 

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