Spain 1: Catalonia

A somewhat disjointed itinerary. 

The original plan was to resume the walk on Camino de Santiago del Norte from Santander where we stopped in the fall of 2015. You might say it’s a case of feet problems causing cold feet. (I should have worn better shoes on city walking in Japan last year.) Ah, the callous callus. 

It’s just as well actually, since I am also getting more impatient with the slow pace of traveling. 

We start in Spain nonetheless (and will move on to UK later) because of El Celler de Can Roca. A reservation at this gastronomic temple was made nearly a year in advance and no way was I going to miss it.

Barcelona: La Rambla is always an interesting place to hang out, even on your first evening with a jet lag. Dinner is just a few blocks away at Dos Palillos.

Dos Palillos, Barcelona: not surprising in the trendy city there is this "Asian Bar," an upscale Japanese style counter restaurant. What is interesting is that it is run by a Spanish chef, Albert Raurich, who worked at the legendary El Bulli. I guess it helps to have a Japanese wife. This place may just be a ticket to El Bulli nostalgia, if you are frustrated by not being able to get into Albert Adria's "Tickets" in town.

Los Palillos: Asparagus two ways - the dish in front is a take on Thai salads. Overall, a very admirable job of Asian cooking by the staff (except the blow-torched kimchi!)

Dos Palillos: toro, local "wasabi" leaves, and yamaimo (Japanese mountain yam) wrapped around monk fish roe. Given the ingredients and the number of courses, the meal is very reasonably priced. A comparable dinner in the U.S. could cost twice as much.

Girona: reached only in 38 minutes by fast train from Barcelona and also served by a budget airline, Ryan Air. It's been a filming location for the Game of Thrones, but of course I wouldn't recognize any site. We have some time to explore the semi-interesting old town, which once boasted a well preserved Jewish Quarter, before moving on to lunch at El Celler de Can Roca. 

Girona: a view from atop the historic city wall includes the Cathedral in the background.

Girona: the Cathederal has the widest Gothic nave in the world, but some people would be more interested in these steps upon which, I am told, Jaime Lannister thundered up on horseback.

El Celler de Can Roca, Girona: at the beginning of the meal, a globe-shaped curtain is withdrawn, which reveals a tribute to recent travel destinations by the Roca brothers: Peru, Turkey, Japan, Korea and Thailand.

El Celler de Can Roca: a childhood home of the Roca brothers, not far from here. It is remarkable that they have brought the restaurant in their home town to such fame, ranked the top three in the last few years.

El Celler de Can Roca: the parade of amuse bouche continues (even beyond this). It is one of the great things about top European restaurants that these snacks are brought out almost immediately, sometimes even before ordering. Just a few months ago, we were served absolutely nothing for first 20 minutes at Saison in SF, which cost almost three times more.

El Celler de Can Roca: the main portion of the tasting menu finally starts - calcot (a type of scallions grown in Catalonia) with eel.

El Celler de Can Roca: the "flower" of onion with Comte cheese.

El Celler de Can Roca: many of the dishes have a striking presentation - a shrimp dish with all edible parts.

El Celler de Can Roca: birds-in-flight - a squab dish.

El Celler de Can Roca: the youngest brother, Jordi, is the pastry chef, whose imagination created this "Cuban Cigar Box."

El Celler de Can Roca: on the petit fours trolley is the restaurant logo based on the three Roca brothers

El Celler de Can Roca: thus the grand meal ends. Nineteen courses over four hours. Tasty, creative, whimsical, and beautiful. Glad to chat with the middle brother Josep, the sommelier, and catch a glimpse of Joan, the oldest who is the head chef.

Girona: Back to River Onyar to see if there are better reflections of these penjades (hanging houses) on the water, but nope. Still a great day though!

Figueres: heading north from Barcelona on a guided tour, we arrive at the city where Salvador Dali was born. The bread motif on pink walls, eggs on the roof joined by Oscar figures - you know this is not an ordinary museum.

Dali Museum, Figueres: the artist himself designed and launched this museum and every corner you feel his touch. At the entrance you are greeted by a Cadillac that can turn on rain inside and a boat from which blue condoms hang. 

Dali Museum: a portrait which to the naked eye only appears as a barebacked woman (supposedly his wife/muse Gala), but on camera it becomes more of a Lincoln portrait. A great example of how the light is captured by the human eye vs the camera lens.

Dali Museum: a ceiling mural depicting the feet of the artist and Gala. I am certainly not the only one reminded of Michelangelo's Sistin Chapel creation. Bizarre or offensive as some people may find them, his works are somehow aesthetically pleasing.

Dali Museum: another look at the front courtyard. You really get to appreciate Dali's prolific output as well as his wide range, which includes optical illusions, stereoscopy and other 3D set-ups that are on display here.

Cadaques: winding roads over the hills take us to this seaside town where Dali frequented. A copy of his Statue of Liberty with two raised arms. Perhaps Dali anticipated that someday the extra arm will be needed to fend off the assault on the spirit of the Statue like now! 

Cadaques: look, there is uni here! It's pretty close to France. Unlike some of the French who sun tan and shop here, we are  here to see the Dali House, a short distance away in Port Lligat.

Port Lligat: this house strikes me as a labor of love by Dali and Gala. They started with a tiny fisherman's house in a little cove and kept buying and expanding over many years. 

Dali House, Port Lligat: a studio preserved as it was. Dali painted sitting down using a mechanized easel.

Dali House, Port Ligat: the mirror on the far left reflects the sea to the bedroom on right. This area being the easternmost point in Spain, Dali claimed to be the first person in Spain to see the sunrise every morning.

Dali House, Port Lligat: the intimate garden with a touch of surrealism is a beauty.

Disfrutar: one of the hottest restaurants in Barcelona, started by three of the El Bulli mafia, erm, alumni, to faithfully execute "molecular gastronomy" (sorry, Heston Blumenthal) . The balls in the back pop up as the server swirls the bowl. And they pop in your mouth.

Disfrutar, Barcelona: faux green and black olives on the right, in the El Bulli style. But "make sure you sniff the orange blossoms first!" (left glass). 

Disfrutar, Barcelona: most of the 26 courses tonight (which is not even the longest option on offer) are not what they seem. The center ones are not actual corn kernels but "multi-spherical corn tart" on top of foie gras. 

Disfrutar, Barcelona: compared to most of the other stuff, this razor clam dish seems downright classic.

Disfrutar: odd combinations continue - red mullet with "Korean soy sauce" which actually is reminiscent of bulgogi marinade. Oh, and aubergine "gnocchi."

Oh

Disfrutar: a trio of wild hare preparations start with this consomme with tarragon.

Disfrutar: not included in our dinner (then why are they preparing it right in front of us?) is a plate of pistachios in 30 plus ways.

Disfrutar: these are of course not actual peppers. It's getting late (close to midnight) and all I can remember is it's chocolate.

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Disfrutar: some of these are real cotton flowers and others are fake, i.e., real cotton candies. The real and fake theme seems an appropriate way to end this "enjoyable" meal and go back into the world full of this debate.