Northern Italy VIII: Cinque Terre 1

The local train from La Spezia that serves all Cinque Terre towns is crowded and 20 minutes late.. We get glimpses of the Ligurian Sea but the train ride is mostly through the tunnels, 32 of them in all, an engineering feat but not a great introduction for those who came seeking the region's special charm. At Vernazza, the single person manning the ticket office/information booth is not helpful and utters all the trails are closed except from Vernazza north to Monterosso. When asked about the ferry schedule, he simply says to go check at the dock. The infrastructure at the tiny train station could use improvement. Train schedule updates on the monitors are confusing, unlike at other stations so far on this trip. The person at the shop in Vernazza where I pick up the keys to our reserved apartment is disinterested. English is heard everywhere. Americans seem to make up by far the largest foreign contingent. So why would so many people would be interested in coming to this cramped crowded corner of Italy? Is this a case of a major hype and overselling?

From the layout of Vernazza, I know we have to go up north for the best view since it is already late afternoon. The stairs leading out of town are almost indistinguishable from those leading to houses. We are finally up over the town climbing toward Monterosso, but take a wrong turn and find ourselves on some precarious footing. Shortly after we trace back to the right track, Vernazza opens up in front of us in a classic view. OK, I am beginning to understand the enormous popularity of Cinque Terre - small towns in the picturesque setting by the sea.

Vernazza: just out of town, getting lost in the trail. This is not a place to test my coordination. I am leaning against the wall and gingerly stepping down.

Vernazza: the false start did reward us with this view

Vernazza: Now back on the proper trail.

Vernazza: the walls for the trails and terraces for vineyards are the result of hard work by the locals who often have to rebuild without mortar.

Vernazza: the little harbor/square at dusk lined with restaurants

Vernazza: the seafood risotto at this popular restaurant is salty and a bit of a disappointment. Perhaps we are spoiled by the sublime saffron risotto at Dal Pescatore last week.

Vernazza: local life goes on despite the tourist commotion down below on the square.

Since the trails south of Vernazza are closed, we take the train to Corniglia the following morning. The train is again crowded and running late. There are a bunch of people with the full hiking outfit and gear. I can see it is a good hiking place but if you came for peace and quiet on the seaside, you are at the wrong place!

Corniglia: Zig-zagging up from the train station to the center. Longer than Walter's Wiggle in Zion National Park!

Corniglia: Who wouldn't agree with this sign in front of a shop?

Corniglia: a break for Granita di Limoni

Corniglia is the only Cinque Terre town located on a hill.

View of Manarola from Corniglia: Even in the mid-day haze, the cute setting of Manarola is evident.

Corniglia

In late afternoon, we start on the only trail open which is between Vernazza and Monterosso. The path is quite crowded but the views are again spectacular. The hike takes an hour and a half, which we rate 3 out of 10 in terms of difficulty, but it is obviously a huge challenge for some people we pass. At least we haven't seen anyone wearing high heels. 

On the trail from Vernazza to Monterosso: A lookout for Vernazza is a natural stopping point for hikers.

Vernazza to Monterosso: Looking back toward Vernazza yields a move-over-Big-Sur view. Not a bad place for love padlocks (foreground). 

Monterosso coming into view under the bright sun 

After arriving in Monterosso, we take the train south to Manorola, where we spend a very enjoyable evening until the sunset. Despite the crowds including many Rick-Steves-guidebook toting Americans, you can still find some solitude if you look for it. 

Monorola: As soon as we arrive in late afternoon, we go up to a view point where photographers and young lovers are gathered.

Manorola: while waiting for the sun to go down, we go up to what is likely a cemetery with the best sea view. During the Napoleonic rule, because they were considered health risks, cemeteries had to be relocated to outskirts of the town.

Manorola: strolling along geranium-lined trail on a warm evening.

Manorola: finally the town is painted in gold as the sun goes down.

Manorola: the view deserves an encore.

Manorola: The sun has set.

Manorola: waiting for the train back to Vernazza at the tiny train station that opens up to the sea.