To Travel Is To Live: Andalucia V: Pueblos Blancos 2

Driving from Marbella up to Ronda is a breeze using my mighty navigation system. The British voice has perfect timing rattling off the route number, the street name, and the order the exit comes up in each roundabout. And there is no lag as it is not beholden to the internet connection. Some streets are blocked in the center of Ronda, however, and there are a bunch of people in costumes milling about. Turns out that we hit the weekend of the annual Ronda Romantico, when locals dress up and just have fun. After checking in at the hotel, we climb up steep hills to reach Plaza de Espana to check out all the action.

Ronda at dusk: the New Bridge here, actually an old bridge, connects the old Moorish town and the new town. There are two other bridges: the Old Bridge, which is older, and the Roman bridge, the oldest. Houses appear precariously hanging above the cliff.

Ronda: Houses in the old town near the New Bridge.

Ronda: Plaza de Espana next to the New Bridge is filled with locals celebrating Ronda Romantico. Folks taking pictures of each other seem oblivious of the tourists watching them.

Ronda: Selfies on the New Bridge

Ronda: finally some people notice I am taking a picture of them.

Ronda: and now, actually asking me to take a picture of them. The prevailing bandit theme reflects part of their history (bandoleros).

Ronda: you know it's the bullring from the tile work on the steps.

Ronda: a horse-riding competition, free to the public, celebrating Ronda Romantico. I am sure many would think it is the right way to use this renowned double-tiered bullring. Ronda ushered in modern Spanish bullfighting.

Ronda: a large gathering near the bull ring.

Ronda: this restaurant across from the bull ring is named after the revered matador, Pedro Romero.

Ronda

Ronda: the locals seem very happy and know how to have fun.

Ronda

Ronda: along the cliff-edge behind the Parador is quieter

Ronda

Ronda

The following day is devoted to exploring more of Ronda. Both our hotel host (she and her husband own what is really a B&B) and the TI staff are very helpful and enthusiastic about introducing their city to us. And at least seen under the festive light of this weekend, the locals are very happy and seem to have their priorities straight. If I was a bit disappointed with Arcos de la Frontera, Ronda with a dramatic landscape, a manageable size, its share of history, and welcoming people, exceeded my expectations. At least I am getting my daily exercise walking up and down the steep hills. This would be a great place to hang out a few days.

Ronda: a paid visit to the bullring lands me on the arena. With a fine museum, this is a very popular tourist attraction.

Ronda: Mondragon House

Ronda: "Romantic Travelers" refers to the emergence of travel as a refined cultural activity in the 18th and 19th centuries while serving as an antidote for industrialization. Count me in. Very appropriate this weekend.

Ronda: Casa de Bosco

Ronda: I am shooting and he is about to return the favor.

Ronda

Ronda: This tower at Church of Santa Maria la Mayor was supposedly an inspiration for the bell towers at Hearst Castle.

Ronda: a steep hike down to view the New Bridge from the other side. The Parador is seen on the top left, which shares Plaza de Espana with... McDonald's.

Ronda: two coffee table books at our boutique hotel. The owners are transplants from the Basque country, hence the interest in cooking.

On the way back to Seville, we have time to visit two additional white towns: Grazalema and Zahara de la Sierra.
Arcos de la Frontera may have been a somewhat of a letdown, but Grazalema is a pleasant surprise. Only an hour away from Ronda through nice scenery, Grazalema is nestled in the mountains unlike other hilltop towns. We have enough time to have lunch and explore the compact center. We buy some handmade leather goods from Fernando Garcia who moved from Madrid and set up his tiny shop here.
Zahara is even smaller but definitely worth a very brief visit. Then it's a leisurely drive back to the Seville Airport, and voila, I am returning the car without a scratch!