Northern Italy V: Cremona

Cremona is not known to most people, but it is a mecca for violinists. In this small town, the technique for making the modern violin was perfected and all the big names like Stradivari, Guarneri and Amati lived and worked. It is another place within easy reach from Milan and the decision to visit here was solidified when I realized that it is a reasonable jumping-off place for the restaurant Dal Pescatore.

It is quite remarkable that after the golden age of violin making by the masters in the 16th to 18th centuries, people have not been able to duplicate the glory. We head straight from the train station to Museo di Violone, which opened only less than two years ago. It's great to see that there is a nice new home for all the precious violins the town owns and other valuable collections. The hi-tech museum has excellent displays and interactive features.

Cremona: Violin Museum

Cremona Violin Museum: the world according to string instruments

Cremona Violin Museum: the "treasure box" displays a collection of works by the Amati dynasty, Antonio Stradivari, and Guarneri del Jesu, including these Stradivarius violins, "Il Cremona 1715" and "Joachim-Ma" from the right

In the main square, there is an old duomo worth visiting. Next to it is the tower (Torazzo) completed over 700 years ago. It is the third tallest brick bell tower in the world, but we don't have the time or desire to walk 502 steps to the top. On board the train out of Cremona, I realize that we just missed the oldest cafe right next to the train station selling Nougat (or the Italian version, Torrone) which supposedly originated in this area. Well, I guess I am doing my dental fillings a favor and also it's not a wise thing before a major meal. Next time.

Cremona: Duomo and one of the world's tallest brick bell towers

Cremona: a mass going on in the duomo which has find frescos

Dal Pescatore, one of the top restaurants in all of Italy, is literally in the middle of nowhere, sort of equidistant from Cremona, Brescia, Mantova and Parma - take your pick. The train from Cremona takes us to Piadena, a small town where we have trouble finding a taxi. I call the number posted at the station; I am glad I signed up for an international roaming phone package. After driving through another small town of Canneto Sull'Oglio, we finally we arrive in a tiny hamlet of Lunate. It has been quite a journey to get here. 

The rain started to fall, but as we enter the restaurant, the warm welcome is immediate. It is like walking into a private home of the Santini family. Alberto, the younger son, hovers over us during much of the meal. He is also a sommelier, and considering we usually don't order much wine, it's a nice gesture he is taking a personal interest in our patronage. The father Santini, and eventually the mother Santini, who is the main chef, come out and say hello. Nadia Santini, who was voted the best female chef in the world in 2013 by the Restaurant Magazine, offers such genuine appreciation with her radiant smile, even when she says "Sayonara" to us, we don't have the courage to correct her and tell her we are not Japanese.

Ristorante Dal Pascatore: They commission an artist to design a new menu every two years. We received a copy of this beautiful menu at the end of the meal. 

Dal Pescatore: Astice (lobster) terrine with Ossetra caviar and marinated ginger. You know from the first course you are going to have a superb meal.

Dal Pescatore: Pumpkin Tortelli, a common pasta in this region. It must be an additional challenge to rise to global fame when a substantial part of your offering is traditional Italian fare. The spring menu we ordered also included gnocchi and risotto.

Dal Pescatore: A souffle worth waiting 25 minutes for. The tables are widely separated here and it feels like we have the entire living room to ourselves.

Dal Pescatore: high quality to the end. The hospitality of the family is equally impressive.