Northern Italy I: Bergamo

The Seville to Milan route is served by, among other airlines, Ryan Air, a well-known budget option in Europe. You actually land at the airport in Bergamo, about 35 miles from Milan. Ryan Air seems so focused on cutting cost and it feels like riding the Greyhound bus of old. Since Bergamo was one of a number of day trips planned out of Milan, we decide to spend a full day there instead of taking the 5-Euro airline bus to central Milan.

Bergamo is not exactly a household name but it has an interesting old town which is being promoted in the hopes of riding the coattails of Milan EXPO which has opened. My main interest though is that this is where Gaetano Donizetti, one of my favorite opera composers, was born, spent his youth, and died. I mean if I worship the ground he walked on, I want to see that ground! This is an exhaustive pilgrimage - we are even staying in an apartment which is on a street named Via Donizetti. 

Bergamo: Church of Santa Maria Maggiore. Almost ridiculously sumptuous interior.

Bergamo: Church of Santa Maria Maggiore. The most important item here to me is the tomb of Donizetti.

Bergamo: near the entrance to Donizetti Museum

Bergamo: The piano used by the composer at Donizetti Museum, who seems reflective.

Bergamo: Piazza Vecchia, their main square

Bergamo: Via Gombito, the main drag. A typical scene in small old Italian towns, looking very lived-in.

Bergamo: Can't pass up a regional delicacy, Polenta e Osei

Bergamo: Donizetti's birthhouse, last one on left with a banner, which is unfortunately open only on weekends

Bergamo: Citta Alta, seen from the San Viglio hill reached by a funicular

Bergamo: the house where Donizetti died, third one on left (dark brown)

Less than 10 miles away in Brusaporto is one of the highest rated restaurants in all of Italy, Da Vittorio. Despite the threat of rain, we have a very memorable long lunch outdoors where the food is sublime and the owner family is welcoming. My high expectations are met from the two brother chefs who were selected to cook for Queen Elizabeth II when she visited Milan.

Da Vittorio, Brusaporto: well-groomed grounds to go well with their excellent cuisine

Da Vittorio Ristorante: like in many top European restaurants, they bring out the amuse bouche (cous cous with anchovy) even before you get the menu. A nice welcoming gesture especially if you are starving.

Da Vittorio: while the emphasis is definitely on taste, the presentation matches in quality - the plate is a palette.

Da Vittorio: no ordinary fried fish n chips.

Da Vittorio: Enrico Cerea, a three-star Michelin chef preparing pasta at tableside. He smiles and says "Grazie," as his picture is taken. What a down-to-earth guy.

Da Vittorio: best meringue I've ever had