Northern Italy III: Torino

I was going to include a short day trip to Turin as part of a Milan post but realize that would be an insult to both cities. On the flight to Bergamo, an Italian banker sitting next to me mentioned that the fact that the soccer team Juventus from Turin has made it to the Champions League semi-finals this year is a disaster for the AC Milan fans like himself. So a Turin post gets a separate title.

Turin is an industrial city somewhat off the beaten path for the casual tourist, but there is a reason we are visiting. The Shroud of Turin is now displayed to the public, which happens only occasionally. I reserved tickets (which are free) before leaving home. Upon arriving, since we have a little time to kill, we head first to the little coffee shop, Al Bicerin, named after the concoction it serves. (Or is it vice versa?) This cafe has been in existence for over 250 years and boasts Italian and non-Italian celebrities as former clients, such as the Italian unification hero Cavour, Puccini, Nietzsche, and Dumas. We are given the critical instruction not to stir before sipping. The contrast in temperature as well as flavor between smooth cream, strong coffee and sweet chocolate is quite amazing.

Turin: Al Bicerin, a historic cafe, serving, well, Bicerin, an interesting mix of cream, coffee and chocolate, to be sipped in that order without mixing in the glass. A portrait of Cavour, a native of Turin and key figure in Italian unification, hangs on the wall.

We soon approach a long series of white tents which ultimately lead the throng of visitors to Duomo di San Giovanni. But before reaching the destination, you go through lines almost like those at Disneyland where you think you've made progress only to see another long line around the corner. But we are cheered on by an army of smiling and super-friendly volunteers. I am not a practicing Catholic but has long been intrigued by this piece of cloth. Although the consensus is that this is a "fake" made in the 13th or 14th century, not at the time of Jesus's death, it is a fascinating fake nonetheless with some elements experts haven't quite figured out.

While our group is finally face to face with the shroud (Sacra Sidone), a heartfelt narration is provided live, which is in Italian so I do not understand a thing. But people seem overcome at this point, most of whom probably came for a religious experience rather than to see something that is famous for being famous, like Paris Hilton.

Turin: beginning of the path to view Shroud of Turin on special display for a couple of months

Turin: Part of the path includes a section featuring local saints. This young lady, in the process of beautification currently, died of osteosarcoma at age 18. 

Turin: Just before entering the church to view the real thing, there is a video presentation dissecting parts of the image, including all thorn marks, blood stains, etc.

We have some time before taking the train back to Milan. We are not that interested in the Automobile Museum, so we don't need to see that by fiat. Instead, we pick the Turin landmark Mole Antonelliana, which started out as a synagogue and was at one point the tallest brick structure in the world. It also contains the funky National Cinema Museum.  

Turin: Mole Antonelliana - this odd structure houses the National Cinema Museum.

Turin: a view from Mole Antonelliana. The Alps in the background - Turin hosted the Winter Olympics in 2006.

Turin: National Cinema Museum. In the lounge, you can put your feet up and watch a couple of movies on big screens.

National Cinema Museum, Turin: if that's not enough, you can be completely supine and watch a movie on the ceiling.

National Cinema Museum, Turin: A bit of razzle dazzle, but this place is more quirky than technical.

National Cinema Museum, Turin: Why not?

Turin: walking back to the train station

Turin: Piazza San Carlo

Back in Milan, we head directly to Eataly, a couple of Metro stops away at Garibaldi Station. Eataly is a high-end food complex which actually started in Turin and now has a number of locations globally including New York City. Alice (Ah-Lee-Chay) Restaurant is located on the top floor.

Eataly in Milan: not quite like Spain, but even at 10pm on a weekday, it is bustling with diners and shoppers.

Milan: Ristorante Alice, on the top floor of Eataly, has a nice few of the square. I try not to notice the few people peddling roses to passers-by.