Bulgaria 1: Ruse to Plovdiv

The border crossing from Romania to Bulgaria goes smooth - we don't even get out of the car. Our Bulgarian guide, who was waiting for us on the Romanian side for the handover, states that since both countries joined EU,  the process has become much easier. I see a long line of trucks on the other side though, who will probably take hours to cross, reminiscent of our worst border crossing yet, between Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan.

The Danube River forms a natural boundary between Bulgaria and Romania for much of their border before it heads northeast to the Romanian delta and drains into Black Sea. The water level is currently high from recent rains, which has caused major flooding in a few Balkan countries.

The Romanian-Bulgarian border is at the midpoint of this long bridge over the Danube River.

We are soon in Ruse, an easy-going town with plenty of architecture where we stay overnight. We stroll in the pedestrian district until we run into a  parade. Our guide initially thought it was a political rally on the eve of EU Parliament elections, but it turns out that it is the rowdy students who are celebrating graduation.






The following morning, we drive to the Roman ruins at Necropolis-ad-Istrum, and on the way we are greeted by an explosion of wildflowers.

Red poppy, Thistle, and Rape

Red poppy and Rape

Camomile and Red Poppy on the small road to Nekopolis-ad-Istrum.

 

 

Roman ruins at Nicopolis, much of which wait to be excavated

We had planned to stop briefly next in Velico Tarnovo, an old capital and college town, but all the roads are blocked  in celebration of a national holiday honoring the Cyrillic alphabet. We drive on since we have a long day ahead. 

 

Stork sighting on the way to Velico Tarnovo

Rape field past Velico Tarnovo

At Kazanlak is the Valley of Roses, where 60% of the world's supply of rose oil is produced. We are a couple of weeks ahead of this year's annual Rose Festival when 3000 Japanese reportedly descend upon the valley, but we do make the other major attraction in the area, the Thracian Tomb. It houses fantastic murals from the 4th century BC in the small dome of a burial chamber worthy of its UNESCO World Heritage status. I am ready to pay the pretty exorbitant extra charge that lets you into the original chamber, but alas even that practice has recently ceased, so we settle for an exact replica nearby.

Kazanlak Rose Valley: roses aren't quite ready for petal-picking for rose oil

 

A Thracian tomb with 4th century BC murals

The old town in Plovdiv is lovely and belies the fact it is within the second largest city in Bulgaria. We walk up the steep cobblestone streets with a purpose - to get to the Roman Amphitheater before it closes at 5PM. We have seen plenty of Roman ruins in a number of countries, but this one seems special: Made of marble and commands a good view of the city, it is still used for live performances. After an atmospheric visit to Old Town, we settle into a hotel where we wait for the high-decibel graduation celebration to subside before retiring.

 

 

Plovdiv: Students celebrating graduation flood the Old Town

Plovdiv: Student in a photo shoot

 

Plovdiv: Photo shoots all over town

Plovdiv: A well-preserved Roman amphitheater made of marble

 

Plovdiv: This atmospheric popular restaurant is closed for a private graduation celebration. It has a room previously used by whirling dervishes.

 

 

So we settle for an outdoor table with a close view of the Roman Amphitheater. Not too shabby. The Shopska Salad is essentially the Bulgarian national dish.

 

Plovdiv: Roman Stadium, a Turkish mosque, and a collection of other buildings on one Square



  

Plovdiv: The long-lasting Ottoman occupation left an indelible mark on many levels - baklava and other delights