Macedonia

It takes nearly 4 hours by taxi from Sofia, Bulgaria to Skopje, the capital of Macedonia. We enter this little-known country with a population of 2 million which achieved independence from the former Yugoslavia in 1991 without bloodshed unlike Croatia and Bosnia. It does not take much research, however, to realize that it has not been easy here. With  the current unemployment at 30%, the economy has stalled ever since independence. Macedonians have mixed feelings about many of its neighbors, to put it mildly: Bulgarians some of whom feel Macedonia should be part of their country as it was at times throughout history, Turks whose Ottoman ancestors were occupiers here for 500 years, Albanians who comprise a 20% minority within Macedonia many of whom flooded the country as refugees of the Kosovo war in 1999, and last but not least Greeks who has vetoed Macedonia's entry into NATO on a name issue which is only the latest manifestation of historical identity disputes.

We walk out to the central area in Skopje and are greeted by monuments honoring an unlikely pair of well-known figures Macedonia claims, not without controversy, as their own. First is a giant statue that dominates the square over a music fountain. Its official name is "Warrior on a Horse," but who are we kidding? Shall we just say it bears a striking resemblance to Alexander the Great? I am not sure if this was enough to pacify the Greeks who don't want Macedonia to own the lineage of the ruler of the ancient kingdom of, well, Macedonia.

Skopje: Dominating the central square is the statue of, let's just say (in order to appease the Greek government), a man with canny resemblance to Alexander the Great.

The second is a modest but welcoming museum honoring Mother Teresa, who was born in Skopje and left for India at age 18 (and the rest is history.) Her parents were ethnic Albanians, hence the understanding that the world has that she is Albanian. But she never lived in Albania and this is the neighborhood where she was born and bred.

Skopje: Mother Teresa Museum, built on the site of the church she attended growing up. She was born just steps from here. The museum contains her handwritten letters among other things.

The Square leads to Stone Bridge over the historically important Vardar River, which roughly divides the northern Muslim section from the southern Christian one. This bridge is the historic landmark of Skopje, whose name derives from the ancient Roman settlement of Skupe. From the Stone Bridge, you have a 360-degree view of the architectural elements representing the various influences throughout history. Many of the monuments and buildings have been built and rebuilt in the last decade and from this alone you would feel that there is dynamism of a young nation struggling to establish its identity.

Skopje: a view from Stone Bridge showing the new Archaeological Museum soon to be open

Skopje: A daylight view showing a statue of the Roman Emperor Justinian, born not far from here, and the Stone Bridge on the right.

Skopje: A statue of King Phillip II of Ancient Macedonia over a music fountain with his young son below (future Alexander the Great). A domed Turkish bathhouse (hamam) is seen in the background, located in the Turkish quarter.

Skopje: Turkish Quarter

Skopje: Shopping in Turkish Quarter for antique woman’s belt buckles, different versions of which are apparently found throughout Southern Balkan. Ethnographic Museum has a nice collection of traditional costumes.

We have a bit peculiar situation where, in addition to the Macedonian guide for the day to show us around, we are joined by the Albanian driver and guide who will take us to Albania after we are done in Macedonia. When the conversation inevitably leads to the regional history here, while remaining politically correct,  they all agree good-naturedly that in the Balkans everyone takes credit for anything good that has happened in their history but blames everyone else for anything bad. And perhaps more importantly they state in agreement that left alone they would have gotten along just fine but it was the superpowers that ultimately brought strife.

Next stop, a few hours' drive away, is what the Bradt guide describes as the jewel of the Macedonian crown - Ohrid. And that would be a completely justified description. Nestled on the shores of a lake of the same name,  which is almost like the sea to this landlocked nation, Ohrid has the feel of a laid-back resort with hills and cobbled stone streets lined with houses and restaurants adorned with flowers. It is welcoming to the visitors without being touristy.

Lake Ohrid: a tectonic lake, often compared to the likes of Titicaca and Tanganyika. See how this country's name is spelled on the ship.

Ohrid, town and lake: although it may not be as sophisticated as some of the Italian coastal cities or Greek islands, it is quite attractive while not overly touristy. 

Ohrid: a papermaker who also has a copy of the Gutenberg printing press, which he stated is only one of the two in the former Yugoslav Republics. I am thinking to myself, “Hmm, we saw one at Bled Castle in Slovenia, also. How many of these are out there?” He goes on, as if he read my mind, “the other one is in Lake Bled.” Trust in humanity restored.



Ohrid

And Ohrid is also a treasure trove of historically important (and attractive) churches as well as archeological artifacts spanning many periods, dating back to Illyrians and Romans, reflecting its rich history.



Ohrid: our local guide grew up across the road from here. Any modification of houses in Ohrid Old Town,  a UNESCO heritage site, requires permission,  as historical artifacts may turn up anywhere. Her mother still thinks life was better under Yugoslavia, as independence in 1991 brought closure to a local texture factory, for example.



Ohrid; All over town, artifacts of all ages are discovered, including here within the ancient walls

Ohrid: first sighting of Church of St. John, the Theologian, Kaneo, in the southwestern corner of the Old Town

Ohrid: entrance to Church of St. John, Kaneo

Ohrid: More St. John Church

Ohrid: More St. John Church

Ohrid: More St. John Church

Ohrid: More St. John Church - I could be shooting from different angles all day and evening.

Ohrid: St John Church – this setting is becoming one of my favorite corners on earth

Ohrid: this has to be the world's most valuable picnic table - an ancient Roman artifact!

Ohrid: We hear dramatic dialogue, follow the sound, and stumble upon this performance in the courtyard of St. Sofia church. Did not understand a word but stayed for a while.



Ohrid: “Macedonian salad,” with a view of St. Sofia

It is time to cross the border into Albania, but not before a short stop at the large and historically important monastery started in the early 10th century by St. Naum, one of the two important saints from this area (along with St. Clement).

St Naum Monastery: peacocks roaming the grounds

St Naum Monastery: the sprawling complex has nearly turned into a non-descript resort

Leaving Ohrid, Macedonia: wildflowers don't respect the national boundaries