Romania 2: Bukovina

Bukovina has its own complex history. It is Southern Bukovina that belongs to Romanian Moldavia, but its northern neighbor was annexed by Soviet Union in 1940 and then absorbed into the Ukraine Republic. With the fall of Soviet Union, Northern Bukovina has remained part of Ukraine. Anyway, Bukovina is one of the most visited areas within Romania thanks to the famed painted monasteries.

On the way, the houses are sizable, well-decorated and well-maintained. You would not know Romania is still one of the poorest countries in Europe just looking at these houses. If there was an index for housing that is equivalent to the Engel coefficient, I suppose it would be pretty high in this region.

Moldavian countryside

A Moldavian house

Our first stop is Voronet Monastery. Upon entering the grounds, we are struck by the overall shape of the structure as well as the colorful exterior. The wooden roof  juts out horizontally in almost a modernistic way. We have seen some superbly preserved frescos inside old Orthodox churches, mainly in Georgia and Armenia, but such artwork on the exterior is uniquely breathtaking. The structure and the paintings date back to the late 15th century, when Prince Stephen the Great, a name frequently encountered in this part of Romania, had this monastery built in just a few months.

Voronet Monastery

 

Voronet Monastery: there is a blue named after it

 



  Voronet Monastery: West Wall depicting Last Judgment

We then make a special lunch stop at a private home in Moldovita owned by a renowned egg artist. A small "museum" has an outstanding collection, obviously in a different class than the painted eggs we bought at the open-air museum in Bucharest, which we thought were pretty enough. Lucia's artistry and dedication to quality have won her many international honors. After an excellent meal prepared by the family and with a precious egg in our hands, we leave utterly impressed and satisfied.

Lunch at Decorated Egg Museum, Moldovita

 

Painted Egg Collection, Moldovita

 

Egg Painting demonstration

 

In the same town, Molovita,  is another famed painted monastery.

Painted Monastery, Moldovita

Moldovita Monastery: Exterior fresco depicting Siege of Constantinople

 

Moldovita Monastery

The third and final stop is Sucevita Monastery, the largest and perhaps the best preserved. Like in Molovita we encounter a nun circling around the church while striking a wooden board, which announces the start of services. The clacking sound is authoratitve, musical and evocative.

Sucevita Monastery entrance

Sucevita Monastery

Sucevita Monastery

 

Sucevita Monastery

 

Sucevita Monastery: the Ladder of Virtue



Sucevita Monastery: a nun hitting a long wooden board (toaca)

Before arriving at Kampulung Modovenesc, a non-descript mountain town, for an overnight stay, we briefly visit a black pottery workshop in Marginea, We watch a potter whip up a clay jar in a couple of minutes under zero pressure to buy, unlike some shopping breaks in a mass tour.

Pottery made by the reduction technique