To Travel Is To Live: Kosovo

Kosovo to most people may be little more than a vague memory of the war in the late 90's which required U.S. and international intervention. It declared independence in 2008 which Serbia still does not recognize. Quick research indicated that it is safe to travel in this country and it just seemed like a good idea to check it out while we are in northern Albania. Crossing the border from Albania into Kosovo represents a continuum of history and culture, as the vast majority of the population in Kosovo are ethnic Albanians. Indeed Albanian flags are everywhere. We stop at a small market where the owner tells us that his father, uncle and brother were all killed in the war. He suggests we visit the burial site 12 km away, as some tourists do.

But what can one do in a 24-hour visit? First, the historic Prizren over the capital Pristina. That also picks one of the monasteries on the UNESCO World Heritage list I wanted to visit: Decani over Gracanica, based purely on location as we enter the country from the west.

A store near the border: the owner lost family members during the war.

A "Kosovo hamburger": twice the size of a Big Mac for one Euro

The entrance to Decani Monastery is guarded by the Italian force as part of the NATO-led KFOR. Once we enter the well-groomed grounds, it is peaceful. It is a sizable church. White and pink marbles on the exterior stand out. Inside the church are well-preserved 14th century frescoes as well as the relics of the founder, the Serbian King Stefan of Decani. A tour is given by a monk who came from Belgrade a month ago. Serbia is about the only country we are not visiting in the two trips to the Balkans this year, and it is interesting that we experience a slice of Serbian history and culture in this corner of Kosovo.

Decani Monastery

Decani Monastery: Narthex

Decani Monastery: relics of King Stefan Decani

Decani Monastery: interior frescoes from 14th century

Decani Monastery: interior frescoes

We drive to Prizren. The central area is very compact with Stone Bridge and Sinan Pasha Mosque dominating the landscape, as well as numerous sidewalk cafes lining the river. The fortress looms above. The location of our hotel couldn't be better: just a few steps from Stone Bridge. Unfortunately one of the main attractions, the House of Prizren League, is closed for three days, because of filming for an Albanian TV program.

On the way up to the fortress, we rest in the Church of the Holy Savior. Our guide, who worked in Kosovo as part of an international organization promoting post-war stability in 1999, remembers vividly how scared Serbians were who sought sanctuary in this church. He tells another poignant story of a Serbian who protected many Albanians against the ethnic cleansing during the war, only to find himself a victim immediately following the war, after refusing to escape from the town he lived in all his life. Violence continued in Kosovo unfortunately, and this is one of the orthodox churches which were damaged during the unrest in 2004.

We walk out at night and find the river bank and the central square filled with people enjoying a warm evening. Just watching their faces, you would not know these people went through hell in the last 15 to 20 years.