Albania 2: Gjirokastra

Not having my main camera is somewhat liberating. With my point and shoot back-up, I am not spending much mental energy on the settings or creativity, as I just point... and shoot.

Gjirokastra feels special. The entire town appears perched on a hill being overlooked by a 13th century citadel on top. A collection of well-preserved Ottoman-era houses with unique architecture has given the city the UNESCO World Heritage status. The citadel is a good place to roam around. The narrow steep streets are fun to walk around. Gjirokastra gave birth to the notorious dictator Enver Hoxha, but also to the revered writer, Ismail Kadare.

 

Gjirokastra: set on a hill

 

Gjirokastra: A cluster of traditional houses

Gjirokastra: traditional houses

 

Gjirokastra: the Citadel, a good place to wander around.

 

Gjirokastra Citadel: great views of the city and the valley

 

Gjirokastra Citadel: this American plane was captured and used for propaganda during the Communist era

 

Gjirokastra Citadel: view of the city

  

Gjirokastra: a typical street where we bought an antique cow bell.

Gjirokastra: one-man show - he takes an order, grills lamb and eel, and serves.

 

Gjirokastra: the local writer Kadare has been nominated for Nobel Prize in literature.

 

 

Gjirokastra: young and old, people enjoy watching the world go by from the numerous balconies in town

 

 

We have a chance to visit three traditional houses in town. First, our hotel itself is a well-restored structure featuring original architecture, fine woodwork and interesting furnishings. Down the street is the house where Enver Hoxha was born, which has been turned into Ethnographic Museum. As a museum, the collection is pretty modest, but its historical significance and again the unique architecture make it worth a visit. We are the only guests there to enjoy listening to the museum staff. And lastly, again we are the only guests visiting one of the private grand houses, Skenduli House, which has recently been partially restored.



Gjirokastra: A stupendous view from our hotel balcony



Gjirokastra: second floor common area in our hotel, Kalemi Hotel, a tradional house

Gjirokastra: original woodwork in our hotel

Gjirokastra: original woodwork in our hotel



Gjirokastra: a hotel worker joins in a spontaneous yoga session. There is sometimes blurring of lines between personal vs professional here, which often represents a delightful welcome to travelers, but those who always want a strict personal space may find it a bit uncomfortable

Gjirokastra: this is supposedly the room where Enver Hoxha was born. His mother's dowry is the chest on the right.

Gjirokastra: a 200 year old bridal chair in Ethnographic Museum

 

Gjirokastra: Skenduli House, one of the grand traditional houses

Gjirokastra: Skenduli House. The owner shows up to give us a tour.

Gjirokastra: Skenduli House. The owner was kicked out with his two-year-old son by the Communist government in 1981 after this house was assessed at $24.