To Travel Is To Live: Albania 5: Berat, Durres, Kruja

Berati is entirely atmospheric. Nestled on both sides of the river, with the mighty Tomorr Peak in the distance, rows of sloping houses are the centerpiece of this UNESCO World Heritage site. While trying to find and bring our luggage up to our hotel, which is really a large private old house, we discover the joys and challenges of navigating the narrow winding steep alleyways. A half-hour walk in a loop connecting two bridges is very relaxing despite the curious stares from the locals to the degree we have not seen before even in Albania. Surely, there must by other tourists, but perhaps few Asians.

The owner of our hotel is so engaging we almost have to tell him to stop hovering over us. He even runs down to the restaurant himself upon hearing I may have left my guidebook there. (I do shed it in this town and pick up a local heavy user-unfriendly book, a 2007 version, which is eons ago.) I really miss my camera here, which offers endless photographic opportunities. I can see a perennial debate as to which is the most charming old town: Berati or Gjirokastra.

Berat: winding street leading up to our hotel

Berat: houses on a hill

Berat: houses on a hill along the river

Berat: After a maze of alleys, we follow another maze inside our hotel to reach our room (under the red roof on right). The "Golden Gate Bridge" on left.

Berat: houses on a hill

Berat: this newer section with the imposing Tomorr mountain would be enough to wow the visitor, but the crown jewel remains the Old Town

Berat: Old Town with what I would call Golden Gate Bridge of Berat in view

Berat: view from our room

Berat: Old Town

Berat: we join the locals for an evening stroll in the pedestrian district, watching the glow over Mt. Tomorr as well as the holes on pavement which seem to pop up every few meters with no warning signs. Incredulous, we ask our guide about liability and he shrug his shoulders, "if you fall, the city will consider it your fault and may even ask you to pay for any damage!" This is Albania.

Berat: it seems the entire town is out on a pre-dinner stroll. This passage is lined by sidewalk cafes, filled with men and no women to be seen.

Berat: Old Town at dusk

Berat: breakfast at our charming hotel, really a B&B

Berat: Old Town

Berat: Old Town seen from the Castle

Berat Castle: one of the many small churches on site

Berat: a play on words. The era under Enver Hoxha, the notorious former communist dictator, is not to be repeated.

Berat Castle: we often see the Albanian word on left, and it is not what one thinks. Here is a Rosetta Stone equivalent, showing the meaning. The castle is an actual town continuously occupied throughout history.

Berat Castle: these pleasant and curious 9th grade girls claim they hike up the castle in between classes. Those must be long breaks. We commend them for getting exercise rather than pursuing other activities in their free time.

Berat Castle: A man collecting chamomile flowers

Durres was not on our original itinerary, but Albania's second largest is such a popular excursion for people who are visiting Tirana or central part of the country, so it makes sense that we stop briefly. But it doesn’t mean we are visiting under duress. Having been a starting point of the ancient Via Egnatia in Roman times among other things, Durres is a historically rich city, in addition to providing easy access to Adriatic Sea for sunseekers. The most remarkable site is the Balkan’s largest amphitheater, built over Greek, Roman and Byzantine times, discovered in 1966 under the houses on a slope.

Durres: this large city was the starting point of an ancient Roman road, Via Egnatia.

Durres: This ancient Amphitheater, largest in the Balkans, was discovered under the houses in 1966.

Durres: Byzantine mosaics in the Amphitheater

Kruja is sort of a gateway to northern Albania and a historically important city which witnessed many battles won by Skanderbeg against the Ottomans. Equally important for tourists is the famed bazaar street lined by souvenir shops leading up to the castle, which is considered to offer some of the best buying opportunities in Albania. We pay equal attention to the museum and the shops.