Albania 7: Tirana

Border crossing from Kosovo back into Albania goes smooth and we are soon on the new highway toward Tirana. Before heading directly to the capital, we make a detour to a seaside resort for lunch. As we reach the outskirts of Tirana, the traffic stalls. With more than a third of the entire population of Albania living here, the first impressions of Tirana are not very favorable, expected for any sprawling metropolis.  Once we set out on foot in the central area, however, it is a pleasant stroll through many of the attractions in a compact area. Around the Skanderbeg Square, a partially restored clock tower... well, towers, next to the important Et’hem Bey Mosque. Nearby stand an imposing national theater and the National Historical Museum. The latter covers antiquity through the Ottoman years, to independence and the communist era. We walk leisurely past the former house of Enver Hoxha and the surrounding neighborhood which had been closed to the public in his time and is now a vibrant upscale area called the Block.

On the highway to Tirana: a child manning a cigarette shop. Smoking is still very prevalent in Albania, which is obviously a big problem.

Over-the-water bungalows: No, not Tahiti. A detour to Fushe Kuqe for lunch on Adriatic Sea.

Tirana: Exquisite wall paintings inside Et'hem Mosque, done by Italians in the early 19th century, who converted, according to the caretaker

Tirana: a mosaic mural at the entrance to National Historical Museum, showing Albanian defenders of all eras

National Historical Museum: better late than never - a tribute to Mother Teresa, an ethnic Albanian

National Historical Museum: Toppling of an Enver Hoxha statue as communism ended

National Historical Museum: equal opportunity persecution - Catholic, Muslim and Orthodox clerics under Communism.

Tirana: all in one - the national flag, the Skanderbeg statue, the mosque, the clock tower, and a new optical-illusion inducing building

Tirana: a new shiny Orthodox church, third largest of its kind in Europe

Tirana: a new shiny clock tower next to the new shiny church

Tirana: promise of an eco-friendly city

Tirana: "pyramid" which started as an Enver Hoxha museum, but now non-functional and may be demolished

It may be somewhat unorthodox to end the tour in the capital city rather than start from it. We have seen, experienced and tasted much throughout the country, and the visit here on our last day feels a bit like an epilogue. We ride a glass elevator to the top of “Sky Tower” built by a Chinese company, where there is a rotating lounge to take in a 360-degree view of the city. “Every 45 minutes,” says our guide. Sipping tea while enjoying the view of the capital is a fine way to end the trip to Albania.

Tirana: the former residence of Enver Hoxha (middle)  and "the Block" area



University of Tirana: originally built (along with the stadium next to it) supposedly with the Mussolini "axe" in mind



Tirana: The National Theater of Opera and Ballet of Albania (with a flag)

Tirana: Skanderbeg Square with the new Orthodox church in foreground



Tirana: the central area seen from Sky Tower

Kosovo

Kosovo to most people may be little more than a vague memory of the war in the late 90's which required U.S. and international intervention. It declared independence in 2008 which Serbia still does not recognize. Quick research indicated that it is safe to travel in this country and it just seemed like a good idea to check it out while we are in northern Albania. Crossing the border from Albania into Kosovo represents a continuum of history and culture, as the vast majority of the population in Kosovo are ethnic Albanians. Indeed Albanian flags are everywhere. We stop at a small market where the owner tells us that his father, uncle and brother were all killed in the war. He suggests we visit the burial site 12 km away, as some tourists do.

But what can one do in a 24-hour visit? First, the historic Prizren over the capital Pristina. That also picks one of the monasteries on the UNESCO World Heritage list I wanted to visit: Decani over Gracanica, based purely on location as we enter the country from the west.



A store near the border: the owner lost family members during the war.

A "Kosovo hamburger": twice the size of a Big Mac for one Euro

The entrance to Decani Monastery is guarded by the Italian force as part of the NATO-led KFOR. Once we enter the well-groomed grounds, it is peaceful. It is a sizable church. White and pink marbles on the exterior stand out. Inside the church are well-preserved 14th century frescoes as well as the relics of the founder, the Serbian King Stefan of Decani. A tour is given by a monk who came from Belgrade a month ago. Serbia is about the only country we are not visiting in the two trips to the Balkans this year, and it is interesting that we experience a slice of Serbian history and culture in this corner of Kosovo.

Decani Monastery

Decani Monastery: Narthex

Decani Monastery: relics of King Stefan Decani

Decani Monastery: interior frescoes from 14th century

Decani Monastery: interior frescoes

We drive to Prizren. The central area is very compact with Stone Bridge and Sinan Pasha Mosque dominating the landscape, as well as numerous sidewalk cafes lining the river. The fortress looms above. The location of our hotel couldn't be better: just a few steps from Stone Bridge. Unfortunately one of the main attractions, the House of Prizren League, is closed for three days, because of filming for an Albanian TV program.

On the way up to the fortress, we rest in the Church of the Holy Savior. Our guide, who worked in Kosovo as part of  an international organization promoting post-war stability in 1999, remembers vividly how scared Serbians were who sought sanctuary in this church. He tells another poignant story of a Serbian who protected many Albanians against the ethnic cleansing during the war, only to find himself a victim immediately following the war, after refusing to escape from the town he lived in all his life. Violence continued in Kosovo unfortunately, and this is one of the orthodox churches which were damaged during the unrest in 2004. 

We walk out at night and find the river bank and the central square filled with people enjoying a warm evening. Just watching their faces, you would not know these people went through hell in the last 15 to 20 years.

Albanian and Serbian languages are both supposed to be used on signs, but...



Prizren: Stone Bridge with Sinai Pasha Mosque

Prizren: Bistrica River flows through it. The fortress is seen on top.

Prizren: An abundance of riverside cafes

Prizren: Shadervan Square

Prizren: Sinan Pasha Mosque

Prizren: Sinan Pasha Mosque

Prizren: Church of Holy Savior, damaged during unrest in 2004

   

Prizren: political statements

Prizren: Child-friendly

Prizren: shopping for filigree near the square

 

Prizren: this delicious meat dish bears the name of the Albanian hero, Skanderbeg



Prizren: center at night

Albania 6: Shkodra and Albanian Alps

Shkodra, tucked away in the northwestern corner near the border with Montenegro, is Albania's fourth largest city and has plenty of history to boot. It was the capital of a late Illyrian kingdom whose rulers included the often-mentioned Queen Teuta from the third century BC. It is also used as a jumping-off point for the Albanian Alps, a newcomer in the hiking and climbing world.

As we dawdled a bit at Kruja, and with the guide and the driver who love to take long coffee or cigarette breaks at every opportunity, it is already early evening when we arrive in Shkodra. Since we are taking a lake ferry early the following morning, we have really just one thing to do before the sun goes down. And the choice is easy - Rozafa Castle, named after a young woman who according to legend had to be buried in the walls in order for its completion and is still producing milk for her child in the form of dripping water.  

A professor who was supposed to give a tour cannot make it so the caretaker sends his eleven-year-old son instead. The boy speaks good English and is a wealth of knowledge. Further encouraged by our enthusiastic reception, he goes on, "would you like to hear about Skanderbeg next?" After that, uprovoked, he rattles off some facts about the sun. In the meantime, the sun is setting and we decide to linger on a bit longer and take in the 360-degree vista and a magical ambience on top of the ruins.




Shkodra: from Rozafa Castle

Shkodra: a view of the delta from the castle ruins

Shkodra: a minaret built on top of a church, now both in ruins

Shkodra: sun setting over Shkodra Lake

Shkodra: an eleven-year-old confidently telling us the history and archeology of the area

  

Shkodra: sunset over Lake Shkodra

Shkodra: sunset over Lake Shkodra

Shkodra: sunset

Shkodra: descending from Rozafa Castle

The dinner is well worth the wait at a spacious and beautifully decorated restaurant adjoining our hotel which is an oasis of old architecture in the middle of otherwise ugly modern downtown Shkodra. It is a pleasant surprise to be staying at this grand old house after such an enjoyable time at Rozafa Castle.

Shkodra: a room at a grand old traditional house

Shkodra: a restaurant with ambience at Hotel Tradita Geg and Tosk

Shkodra: baking bread

Lake Koman is a man-made lake, long and narrow. A scenic boat ride from Koman to Fierze used to be a shortcut to the Albanian Alps, but now that a new highway has been built the demand for a car ferry has dwindled and only passenger boats are operating. We have to send our driver who will drive alone with our luggage and meet us at our destination, but because of some road closures he will be on a route that take him over into Kosovo before crossing back into Albania. We rearrange the contents of our suitcases hurriedly in order not to invite suspicion at the border. We get on our modest boat which takes off about the same time as a competitor's boat, a funky converted bus. The scenery is very nice and no wonder this 3-hour ride has been likened to a passage through Norwegian fjords. The waters are very clean except for occasional collections of plastic bottles and other refuse floating on them. Our guide jokes, "Albanians don't worry about the end of the world. Because they are always 20 years behind everyone else."



Lake Koman

Lake Komen: a ferry boat converted from a bus



Lake Koman

Lake Koman

Our driver has safely returned (not without, shall we say, making a small donation to the well-being of the guards at the border crossing). After driving another hour and a half partly on unpaved roads through mountain scenery along a gushing clear river, we reach our destination, Valbona. We are staying at a farm surrounded by mountains of the Albanian Alps. We are shown to a room with six beds  - interior decoration is not a priority here, but hey I hear cuckoos and cowbells from the room. With a bit of a threatening weather, we choose to be lazy and skip a planned hike. All items at meals are produced at the farm, including cheese, butter, honey, vegetables and meat. The following morning, we see off a Canadian couple who leave on a trek to Thethi bright and early. I learn that this farm was featured in a New York Times article last year. Very interesting to compare their description of the owner with our own. The stay is too short, but it's time to move on. We are looking forward to going back to civilization, well, in ... Kosovo.

Valbona RIver: Our guide wants a picture in honor of his estranged wife who is named after this river with crystal clear water.

 

Valbona: a guesthouse at the farm we are staying




Valbona: farmstay



Valbona: the ruins of an old house at the farm

 


Valbona: farmstay

Valbona: farmstay

Valbona: a couple setting out early on a 6 - 8 hour trek to Thethi

Valbona

Valbona