Italy 8: Verona 2. Vicenza

Verona: making my own non-frozen sugarless yogurt parfait for breakfast at this charming boutique hotel, which is a good value compared to Rome-Florence-Venice. The pace has definitely slowed - sleeping in, a leisurely breakfast, and just a half day of sightseeing. 

Vicenza: today we make a pilgrimage of sorts to the former stomping grounds of Andrea Palladio, who is considered one of the most influential individuals in the history of architecture. We walk down the main drag, named, what else, Corso Palladio.

Vicenza: first stop is Teatro Olimpico (Olympic Theater), Palladio's last work which he actually did not live to see completed. The corridor leading to the theater provides information on the first event to be staged here on March 3, 1585 - Sophocles' Oedipus.

Olympic Theater, Vicenza: the first roofed theater in the world is stunning! We have the place to ourselves and I am just soaking it in.

Olympic Theater, Vicenza: the original scene on the stage, supposedly Corso Palladio, is still remarkably preserved.

Olympic Theater, Vicenza: the inscription refers to Palladio, 1584, erected (Erexit, not Brexit!)

Olympic Theater, Vicenza: a few people trickle in. Would be excellent to see a live performance here.

Vicenza: Palazzo Chiericati by Palladio

Vicenza: Basilica Palladiana by Palladio

Piazza dei Signori, Vicenza: the rooftop of Basilica Palladiana is not open so we settle for some snacks with a partial view of the Basilica as well as Loggia (on right), both by Palladio. The market is closing on the square.

Vicenza: a statue of the architect next to Basilica Palladiana

Piazza dei Signori: Basilica Palladiana and Loggia del Capitaniato

Vicenza: Loggia del Capitaniato by Palladio is a strong presence on the square.

Vicenza: a column with St. Mark's winged lion again - this city was part of the Republic of Venice.

Church of Santa Corona, Vicenza: a nice man collecting tickets at the entrance try to explain to me that the marble altar took 27 years to make.

Church of Santa Corona, Vicenza: a reliquary containing a thorn from the Crown of Thorns, which gives the church its name, Holy Crown.

Church of Santa Corona: Adoration of Magi by Veronese.

Church of Santa Corona: Bellini's Baptism of Christ

Church of Santa Corona: beyond the above treasures, people come here for Valmarana Chapel in the lower level designed by Palladio, which has been nicely restored recently

Palazzo da Monte, Vicenza: another Palladio building

Palazzo Leoni Montanari, Vicenza: this museum holds, among other fine works, a collection of Russian icons, supposedly largest outside Russia.

Palazzo Thiene, Vicenza: another Palladio building

Palazzo Barbaran da Porto, Vicenza: this Palladio structure is now a museum bearing his name. The mulberry tree in the courtyard probably signifies the silk trade through which wealth was accumulated in this area.

Palazzo Barbaran/Museo Palladio: this museum has a number of models of Palladio's works. Since we do not have time to go out to the suburbs, we settle for a model of the famous Villa la Rontonda, which heavily influenced Jefferson's Monticello.

Palazzo Thiene Bonin Longare, Vincenza: walking by one last Palladio building, as we leave town. 

Vicenza: Gandhi's bust? Well, incidentally, this is the birthplace of Sonia Gandhi.

Back in Verona, dinner at Casa Perbellini is a delight. The friendly and down-to-earth chef explains the menu himself and checks on us a couple more times during the meal. We take advantage of the simpler and less pricey set menu they offer, interestingly, before 9pm, at which point only the full tasting menu is available. (Dial the American happy hours ahead by three hours!) 

Every course is excellent. With two glasses of wine included in the price, this meal is probably the best value I have encountered at this level. The staff speak good English and the dark jacket, blue jeans and red sneakers they are wearing set the tone - casual yet professional. 

Casa Perbellini, Verona: the profusion of amuse bouche, even for an abridged version of the tasting menu we ordered, is in line with their hospitality. 

Casa Perbellini: excellent branzino tartar in sesame seed wafers with the spoon presented already wetted with a licorice sauce 

Casa Perbellini: spaghetti vongole with the pasta made with Integrale (whole) grain, zucchini and calamari crumbles

Casa Perbellini: an excellent dessert with generous petit fours is an appropriate way to end the superb meal.

Casa Perbellini: a three-way dessert with cotton candy, a pineapple based drink inside a white chocolate casing. This is a great antidote to the shocking meal a couple of nights ago at La Fontanina. My faith in fine dining in Italy is restored.