Italy 4: Venice 1. Padua

Two hours on the train from Florence, a Vaporetto ride from Santa Lucia Station to the Rialto stop, then a few steps from the bridge to our hotel. A lot more crowded than our last visit but Venice still feels surreal. Right after checking into the hotel, I get up on Rialto Bridge, elbow my way past a few people and enjoy the Grand Canal scene.

Venice: Grand Canal viewed from Rialto Bridge at dusk

Venice: it's all about canals here. Gondoliers have been doing this for years, but probably have had to adapt to the selfie generation recently.

Ca' D'Oro: on our way to dinner, we stop to view one of the famed old palaces in Venice near the restaurant, although it has lost its gilt facade over the years.

Ristorante L'Alcova: dinner tables looking over Grand Canal

L'Alcova: although it's picked for the location, the food is not bad, either. Two salads - "Caprese" with mozarella and sundried tomatos, and Sicilian style with plenty of eggplants  

Morning fog in Grand Canal. We depart Venice on a full day trip to Padua. 

Padua (Padova): a half hour train ride from Venice. With lots of sights, Padua makes a great day trip. This is the 17th century courtyard at University of Padua, the second oldest in Italy after Bologna (founded in 1222). 

Padova: a bustling market with Palazzo della Ragione in the background. (Transplanted Sri Lankan sellers are frequently seen in these stalls.) We can't linger very long as we have a lunch reservation.

Le Calandre: after some trouble getting a taxi in Padova, we arrive in the small non-descript town of Rubano just in time for lunch. The decor of the dining room (with only eight tables) is somewhat unexpectedly modern chic with most things designed by the chef.

Le Calandre: one of their signature dishes, "Squid Cappucino," is sublime.

Le Calandre: the best cannelloni I have ever had. Excellent warm tomato sauce.

Le Calandre: are they pushing their award-winning cookbook too hard? Perhaps. But there is no questioning the supreme talents of Massimilliano Alajmo, dubbed the Mozart of Stoves in Italy, partly because he was the youngest chef to be awarded three Michelin stars at age 28. 

Le Calandre: smoked tagliolini with egg yolk shavings

Le Calandre: saffron risotto, the "old" version, another signature dish. A new version is also served which apparently changes periodically. I like the old better, which is as stunning as a similar dish at Dal Pescatore last year. The little note contains a quote from the Chef about cooking. 

Le Calandre: mandorle (almond) "ricotta" and "mozzarella" without use of dairy products. Brilliant. Nice way to end a superbly creative menu that is still based on traditional Italian cuisine. This makes up for the disappointment at Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence. The tall intense yet friendly chef comes around to chat with us a couple of times during the meal and volunteers to pose for a picture as we leave.

Basilica of St. Anthony: now that the body has been fed, it is time to feed the soul. Back to Padova. There is a special program for a large pilgrim group going on in front of the church. A golden angel weather vane is visible on rooftop.

Basilica of St. Anthony: Donatello's cross and statues at the altar

Basilica of St. Anthony: one of the graves in the cloisters belongs to Gabriele Fallopio, a 16th century anatomist of the Fallopian tube fame who died in Padova in 1562. 

Padova: the line to view St. Anthony's tomb is long so we take a brief detour to the botanical gardens, which is on the UNESCO Heritage list and supposed to be the very first in the world. 

Basilica of St. Anthony: 16th century marble pieces near the saint's tomb

Basilica of St. Anthony: devotees touching the saint's tomb, perhaps asking him to find things lost or stolen. Fortunately we have not fallen victim to pickpockets yet on this trip.

Basilica of St. Anthony: as the pilgrim single file slows down to reach the relics, they are singing "Brother Sun, Sister Moon" at the mass, making it one of cherishable moments for me. Half-functioning, I cannot figure out the reliquary that contains the saint's tongue (middle case). The tongue and the jaw displayed here are symbolic of the saint's oratory skills and were supposedly discovered intact years after his death.

Caffe Pedrocchi: located in a building which has witnessed important events since the 19th century. Have to try the zabaglione that the French writer Stendhal liked and now bears his name. But it is too sweet, too rich and too eggyolk-y. At least the tiramisu is fine.

Padova: now it's time for one of the highlights of the day. In the remaining minutes before our reserved slot to visit the chapel that contains Giotto's frescoes, we check out his cross in the adjacent museum. 

Scrovegni Chapel, Padova: here we are! After 15 minutes in the "dehumidifying" chamber (hopefully it does not contribute to recurrence of my kidney stones!), a total of 25 people are allowed in for 15 minutes. (Actually we get 20 minutes as part of the night tour; one reason I picked a 7pm slot.) This is Last Judgment occupying the back wall.

Scrovegni Chapel, Padova: hearing that the chapel was built partly as a funerary monument, I recall some similarity to Queen Nefertari's Tomb in Luxor, Egypt, inside which I stood in awe for 10 munites some years ago - the blue background with stars.
Both are truly memorable experiences.

Scrovegni Chapel, Padova: Lamentation. The nearly intact frescoes from year 1305 have bright colors after restoration. This important early Renaissance work is an amazing accomplishment.

Scrovegni Chapel, Padova: killing of the innocents - tears rolling down one woman's face not quite well captured in this photo

Scrovegni Chapel, Padova: Last Judgment (detail): Enrico Scrovegni (kneeling here) commissioned the work possibly to atone for his and his father's sins of usury. In my judgment, standing in this chapel is one of the most unique artistic encounters one can have.