Italy 10: Piemonte 2

Alba: we go on a "truffle hunt" tour, which was not originally planned, but we have a couple of hours before dinner, so why not. They take us about 15 km south of Alba to meet one of the 4,000 licensed truffle hunters. 

Alba: the dog finds a black summer truffle. Even though it may be a "simulation" where the truffles are buried intentionally, as long as the dog thinks it is real, I consider it real. We do learn a lot. In fact, I would actually call this an efficient show and tell.

All'Enoteca: driving north in the dark for 20 minutes through numerous roundabouts to reach this well respected restaurant in Canale in the Roero region. The locally well known chef coming out to say hello is always a good sign. Food and service are about what I expected. Free inclusion of white truffle shavings on a cream of sweet potato dish with Jerusalem artichokes. Normally I drink no more than a glass, but I am taking advantage of the unusually low priced wine pairing which includes a Barolo (shown) as well as a local Arneis white.

All'Enoteca: a meringue dessert dish with Moscato d'Asti (the town of Asti being only 10 minutes away from this restaurant)

Alba: what, Nutella for breakfast? Well, it is not a model of healthy eating for sure, especially with their use of palm oil, but I feel I need to do this once, since the company which invented this addictive spread, Ferrero (also known for Ferrero Rocher), started right here in Alba. (Mr. Ferrero used hazlenut initially because chocolate was scarce.) I am checking the label and Nutella does have 13% hazelnut content.

Alba: Piazza Duomo is filled with booths this morning.

Alba: we head back to the white truffle market for "Truffle Sensory Analysis." The speaker, a member of the National Institute of Taste of Truffles (or something to that effect) and a judge during this festival, reminds me of an old cranky professor. And there is a test!

We leave the truffle talk early right after five truffles were passed around for grading (it feels like skipping out on an exam!) to get to lunch on time at Guido Restaurant in the Barolo region. After a 15-minute drive, we arrive at the Fontanafredda compound in the Serralunga d'Alba district, which is a former private estate of Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of unified Italy. 

I knew the restaurant was located in a historic royal villa occupied once by the king's mistress, but I did not expect upon arrival an element of grandeur for this traditional family restaurant. It appears that out of a number of possibilities for leisurely lunch in the Piedmont countryside, I have picked the right one.

(The restaurant moved here a few years ago from Pollenzo, a bit up north of here, where there is a University of Gastronomic Sciences. It may sound as legitimate as Trump University, but it was founded by the same person who started the Slow Food Movement, and actually awards undergrad and graduate degrees.)

Guido Ristorante, Serralunga d'Alba: located in a grand villa, the former residence of Contessa Rosa, the mistress of King Victor Emmanuel II 

Guido Ristorante: a huge table in a semi-private dining hall signals a pleasant lunch in a countryside estate

Guido Ristorante: an artist-commissioned menu and a complimentary aperitif

Guido Ristorante: one of their signature dishes, Vitello Tonnato (sliced veal with a tuna cream sauce), a Piedmont specialty

Guido Ristorante: this course, Agnolotti di Lidia, is in memory of the mother of the family. They bring out both the sauced (right) and simply boiled versions.

Guido Ristorante: this high quality ice cream also marketed separately. To say the servings are generous is an understatement (a big bowl on right). I am able to exercise some self-control though.

Guido Ristorante: next to our dining room is a bike that belonged to Victor Emmanuel II, whose portraits hangs next to Contessa's.

Villa Contessa Rosa: after lunch, the restaurant staff are kind enough to give us a quick tour of the bedrooms upstairs, this one belonging to the king Victor Emmanuel II.

Villa Contessa Rosa: a post-prandial stroll around a lake complete with a swan and turtles

Barolo: a small town made famous thanks to its namesake red wine. The weather has turned gloomy and dark, but we can't complain about the unusually excellent weather for the last two and a half weeks with no rain.

Barolo: walking down the petunia-lined main drag

Barolo: WiMu is the official name for this funky Wine Museum. There is even a museum of corkscrews in town.

Barolo: a view of vineyards from the castle the WiMu is located

Grinzano Cavour: the castle here is a former residence of an Italian unification hero, Cavour. Who would have thought we'd visit two historic sites from the unification era on the same afternoon in this corner of Italy, one belonging to the first king and one to the first prime minister. It is ironic that Cavour is the one that prevented the official marriage of Victor Emmanuel II to Countess Rosa after his first wife died. I did think about going to a restaurant within this castle but ran out of meals!

La Morra seen in distance: we do a quick drive through this town on a hill before returning to Alba.

Back in Alba, we are too full for a normal dinner, so we pick up some foccacia panini at Focacceria il Budego for four euros each. The server is a cheerful young lady who is impressed that we are from California and insists we take an extra sandwich for free.

Neive: Our last morning in Piedmont, we have some time to drive through the Barbaresco area again.

A view from Neive

Vineyards appearing manicured near Treiso, where we are heading for lunch

Treiso: we kill a few minutes at this local church next to the restaurant before it opens.

La Ciau del Tornavento, Treiso: an excellent view of the valley of vineyards from the terrace, which is a bit cold today, so diners are seated indoors

La Ciau del Tornavento: a variety of excellent warm bread 

La Ciau del Tornavento: not exactly traditional Italian, but this duck foie gras dish comes with four different preparations and represents an excellent value. A glass of Barbaresco is also reasonably priced.

La Ciau del Tornavento: tagliolini (basically tajarin?) with white truffle

La Ciau del Tornavento: another dish with white truffle (warm eggs) - why not, it will probably be a while before I will try this particular fungus again.

La Ciau del Tornavento: the service is efficient as requested, and we have time for a quick dessert before driving to the Milan Malpensa Airport. This is a chestnut-themed dish but the red comes from cachi. It is a persimmon season in California, and it's time to go home!