Italy 1: Rome

October 1986 - whoa, three decades ago - is when I was in Rome last. Nothing much would have changed because this is, after all, the Eternal City, right? We embark on the well-trodden Rome-Florence-Venice axis, this being the daughter's first trip in Italy. We only have a little over two and a half days in Rome, but hey, we can devote a full day each to the splendor of the Roman Empire and to the grandeur of the seat of Catholicism that is the Vatican. All figured out.

Pantheon, Rome: a short stroll from the hotel brings us to a rare late evening opening of this 19th century old structure. The inscription credits M Agrippa, a friend and son-in-law of Augustus, for its creation, although Hadrian rebuilt it.

Pantheon in the daylight:  the mother of all domes, testing the limits of wide-angle lenses. Light comes in through the "oculus" on top. Raphael's grave on the left. 

Terre e Domus: This modest restaurant, run by the city of Rome, is practically in the shadow of Trajan's Column (seen through the window) in today's blinding sun.

Amatriciana: for my first pasta dish on this trip, I pay tribute to the victims of a recent devastating earthquake in the town the sauce is named after. Although Amatrice is two hours away by car, this dish has come to be known as a Roman specialty. The pasta is mezze maniche, sort of a shortened rigatoni with ridges which hold the sauce.

Am I the first one to notice that some of these ubiquitous Roman column remnants bear canny resemblance to certain pasta, in particular the mezze maniche I am having? But this is from the visit later today of the Roman forum (with Temple of Antoninus Pius and Faustina in the background), and I am getting ahead of myself.

Before we finish lunch, a familiar figure walks in and his party sit at the next table. Wait, could it be? yes it is. Rick Steves! I show him my copy of his Italy guidebook and he poses for a photo with a smile. After lunch we walk to the meeting point for our guided tour of the standard Colosseum - Palatine Hill - Forum variety. So we move from Trajan's Column to Arch of Constantine. How about that.

Near the Colosseum, looking for our tour group, we hear recorded messages repeatedly urging visitors to be wary of pickpockets. Just then, two men appear out of nowhere running at full speed, seemingly being chased by the police. They knock over the wife, who is fortunately not hurt seriously but left with a bruise. 

It was a good decision to sign up for a guided tour and avoid long lines. However, there is a period of confusion regarding our entry site, and amidst the chaos (without which it wouldn't be Italy!) somehow our group manages to find the entrance at the arena level which usually is granted to special tours.

Colosseum: how many photos of this structure are taken everyday? One of the fascinating features is its textbook display of Greek columns on different layers - Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian.

Colosseum: Our group lucks out and enters via the gladiators' entrance onto the arena level, which is now reserved for special groups. I soon gain the gladiator's perspective and start imagining the crazed spectators rising to their feet to chant "Lock her up! Lock her up!" 

Walking up Via Scala, we reach Arch of Pius which is of historic and architectural importance and has spawned many arches including Arc de Triomphe in Paris. We veer left from here to enter Palatine Hill first.

Palatine Hill: looking toward Domus Flavius. Unmistakable Roman pines.

The Roman Forum vista from Palatine Hill. (Victor Emanuel Monument in Piazza Venezia is seen in the distance on left.)

Santa Maria Maggiore: opening hours posted for Italian monuments are not to be totally trusted. Although we could not see the renowned mosaic in the interior today, a leisurely 1 km walk from the Colosseum is still worth it.

Spanish steps: if there is one place where people gather for no good reason other than everyone else being there, this is it. Well, there is some notable stuff around here, like Bernini's "Sinking Boat" fountain (in front) and the house John Keats died in at age 25 (on far right). (Too bad we won't have time to visit Protestant Cemetery where he and his fellow Romantic English poet Percy Bysshe Shelley are buried.)

A view of St Peter's Cathedral after sunset: from the dinner table at Giuda Ballerino!, a rooftop restaurant at the posh Bernini Hotel in Piazza Barberini. Seen far in the distance, St. Peter's is the tallest structure as no building is allowed to be higher. From their abridged weekend menu, I order amatriciana again, this time with bucatini.

Trevi Fountain: another place jampacked at all hours of the day. It underwent a recent makeover partially funded by Fendi, perhaps appropriately, as this place may be more style than substance.

Suppli: no, not supple supper supply but a Roman snack which is basically a rice ball with tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese, similar to Sicily's Arancino. Early lunch at Bonci Pizzareum of course includes pizza, which they have quite a creative variety of, including an eggplant (above). If this place was good for Anthony Bourdain, it's certainly good enough for me. 

Vatican Museum: A gallery of maps, like all the collections in the museum, is a testament to the purchasing power of the Catholic church. But I don't mean to be too cynical, as the works here also represent dedication of talented artists over the centuries. Shortly after walking through this impressively long hall (400 ft), we arrive at Sistine Chapel.

Sistine Chapel: Ceiling painting, the digital variety. The no-photo policy in this room is a little easier to stomach since our very capable guide used the digital media, newly available at the museum entrance, to go over the images beforehand. When we visited in 1987, the ceiling was still in the process of being restored and Last Judgment was covered in the dark grime. It's a privilege to be in the room to witness the brilliant colors of Michelangelo's priceless frescoes as if they were done yesterday.

St. Peter's Cathedral: not just the center of the Catholic universe but an artistic and architectural achievement of the highest order. A view of the nave seen from the spot (red circle) where Charlemagne supposedly was crowned in the year 800.

St Peter's Cathedral: Bernini's bronze canopy! The legendary dome! The colored marble floor!

St. Peter's Cathedral: this is a Jubilee year which usually comes around every 25 years. I picked this particular guided tour to ensure we get to go through the holy door (on right) but I find out that this is now the main entrance for everyone during this jubilee year! Anyway, by passing through it multiple times, I hope I am absolved of some of my considerable sin!  Oh, BTW, Michelangelo's La Pieta in left lower corner.

St Peter's Cathedral: after the elevator ride to the base of the dome, it is an additional 330 steps to the top.

St Peter's Cathedral: the claustrophobic path up to the top of the dome opens up to a nice perspective through the railings and at the eye level with the letters at the bottom of the dome where it is more believable that each letter is 3 meters tall.

St Peter's Cathedral; good exercise, a great view of St Peter's Square and beyond, a wise decision.

Armando al Pantheon: I am intent on trying most of the pastas associated with Roma, and this small traditional restaurant fits the bill. Cacio e pepe (foreground), carbonara, and gricia, all on the same table! And the spaghetti is quite al dente!

Piazza Navona: a post dinner stroll through one of the popular plazas in Rome. Of course the Bernini Fountain is still here, but so is Tre Scalani (left) which we sought out to  have the house specialt , Tartuffo ice cream 29 years ago, although it does not seem to be an in thing to do any more.

Final morning in Rome, we can take in one more sight. Too late to reserve tickets for the Borghese Gallery, and Basilica of St. John the Lateran is a bit too far, so we settle on Capitoline Hill and Museum. But no loss there, as we rediscover what I remember as a top pick by Mr. Arthur Frommer in an early edition of his guidebook that we used a generation ago.

Stairs leading up to Capitoline Hill designed by Michelangelo.

Capitoline Museum displays an impressive collection of works from the antiquity. Lupa Capitolina, appropriate for this collection in Rome, however, is now thought to be a lot newer than originally thought.

Capitoline Museum: a bronze statue of Marcus Aurelius from the second century, a copy of which sits just outside on Campidoglio Square. Waving good bye, we are leaving Rome for Florence, not galloping away, but by train.