Italy 2: Florence 1

Only an hour and a half train ride apart are these two historical and cultural giants, Roma and Firenze. Italian trains are remarkably reliable (except when there is a strike). And the ubiquitous ticket machines are so convenient to use. The train station in Florence is just a 10 minute walk from where we are staying but we use a taxi because of our luggage despite the warning that taxi drivers here can cheat. The taxi pulls up on the edge of Piazza San Giovanni, which is where the Duomo is located. And our B&B as well.

 A view outside the room window: the name of this B&B is Florence Cathedral View and they are not kidding. We walk up to our suite, put the luggage down, and open the window; voila, this is the view. It is truly "A Room with a View."

Florence: walking down to the square and snap a shot like so many are doing - Baptistry, Duomo, and the Giotto Tower, with the Dome sneaking in.

Palazzo Vecchio: after downing some gelato at a Grom branch near the Duomo, we walk to Piazza delle Signoria. This Renaissance Town Hall (then a palace, then City Hall again) is the first site we use the pricy but mighty Firenze card. Other than the capacious Grand Hall, this palace is underwhelming esthetically.

As the evening approaches, we cross Arno River and start climbing a small hill to Piazzale Michelangelo, a prime spot for gathering at sunset. We arrive at our destination with plenty time to spare, so we go up a little further up to ...

San Miniato Church: situated above Piazzale Michelangelo, this is a good spot to watch the sunset. (Actually this photo of the 12th century facade was taken after the sunset).

San Miniato Church: drop two Euros into the digital info station, then the light comes on. At 6:30pm we catch the daily chants by the monks in the cozy cove below. We cut the serene experience short to make sure we don't miss the sunset.

The sun soon disappears into the clouds near the Tuscan horizon.

Florence: a view of the Duomo complex from San Miniato Church as the sun goes down

A few of Florence after sunset from San Miniato Church

Piazzale Michelangelo: on the way down, we do stop here and witness the raucous young crowd lingering after the sunset. 

Now that the soul has been fed, it is time to feed the body. Walking down in the dark, we successfully find a short cut to our dinner reservation at the bottom of the hill (thanks, offline Googlemap! I probably look like I am playing Pokemon Go all the time. Surprisingly there are a lot of tourists who still cling to to a paper map.)

La Bottega del Buon Caffe: an upscale restaurant despite what the interesting name may suggest (House of Good Coffee). The staff are super cheerful and the intense chef with a shaven head does his work right in front of most tables in an open kitchen. This risotto dish with goat cheese and pieces of eel on top is quite good. The oversized wine glass contains Chianti Classico which along with Leccino olive oil we feel obligated to try.

Breakfast delivered to our room at our B&B, well partly because there is no dining room as such in this 17th Century building on the Duomo square

Baptistry: Right in front of our B&B is this 11th century octogonal structure. This picture of the mosaic ceiling is taken with the neck in extreme hyperextension.

Baptistry: this famous bronze door by Ghiberti, "Gates of Paradise" deservedly attracts huge crowds. But does everyone know that it is a copy? (installed since our last visit).

A couple of blocks north is the building that houses the world-famous statue of David by Michelangelo. There is a very long line moving very slowly. Is this single statue, which everyone has seen a picture of, really worth this much trouble? Fortunately we have the Firenze card.

Accademia: there he is, full frontal.The marvelous marble looks age-less compared to the weather-worn outdoor copies elsewhere in Florence. That should be a warning to all the sun-worshipers who care about their skin. On the right is one of La Pieta's by Michelangelo.

Museum of San Marco: just a block away is a tranquil oasis welcomed after the bustle at Accademia. This is no ordinary museum but a former monastery which is decorated with a great set of  frescoes by Fra Angelica, early Renaissance monk and one of my favorite painters.

Museum of San Marco: Annunciation by Fra Angelica. Each of the monastic cells here (like those on left) has a fresco (and pretty much nothing else) by the master or one of his disciples.

Museum of San Marco: a cell given to Cosimo di Medici which has a Fra Angelico original.

Museum San Marco: Savonarola's cell. The spot on which the fanatic moral reformer and dictator was burned is marked on the pavement of Piazza delle Signoria in front of Palazzo Vecchio. It is a sad irony if your cell is decorated by a painting depicting your death.

'Ino: this popular panini shop near the Uffizi is surprisingly empty. The hard crust is to my liking! My choice is mortadella with gorgonzola.

Uffizi: not as overwhelming as say Louvre or Hermitage. Many of the important works are in the rooms off these corridors.

Uffizi: the Botticelli Room is probably the most popular. Birth of Venus on left (nearly full frontal, as if to match David) and Primavera on right.

Uffizi: Primavera is one of my favorite paintings. The smaller painting on left is also by Botticelli, which is like a visual who's who for the Medici family.

Uffizi: in contrast to Botticelli's famous duo, Michelangelo's Holy Family seems almost ignored by most visitors. In front is a version of Sleeping Ariadne from antiquity. 

Uffizi: Da Vinci's Annunciation is another crowd favorite.

Uffizi: Caravaggio's Medusa. Supposedly represents the moment of her self-recognition. Perhaps others can benefit from such a moment.

Galileo Museum: Next door to Uffizi, we made a quick dash through all the scientific instruments on display. It feels like the scientist himself is giving me a middle finger.

Casa di Dante: the macabre continue at the house where Dante was born. Probably the most intriguing item in this small museum is the death mask which has garnered more attention thanks to Dan Brown's "Inferno." Will definitely see the movie version when it opens.

A view of Ponte Vecchio during a pre-dinner stroll along Arno River

L'Osteria di Giovanni: I am not (or no longer) a steak person, but I am curious about Bisteca alla Fiorentina, a local specialty. It is sold by the weight, and despite my plea for the smallest portion size, they give me a two-pounder. The wife jokingly states that gout was prevalent in the Medici family because they ate so much meat.
This is a large traditional restaurant with friendly service. I surely appreciate the nice gesture of complimentary prosecco and Italian fried bread at the beginning and biscotti at the end. But I am not too impressed with the food. Missing Armando's in Rome!

Florence: Duomo complex at night