Hong Kong 2. Macau

Back in Hong Kong, there is one thing we are focusing on for now - Tim Ho Wan. Can't leave Hong Kong after only one dim sum meal, even on a short visit, can we? As our flight arrives in the afternoon, choices are limited. Might as well try what was known as, until the Singapore hawker stalls received their stars in July, the cheapest restaurant to receive a Michelin star. Actually, of the five Tim Ho Wan outlets in Hong Kong, the prestige currently applies to only two, whatever the tire company's reasoning is, including the Sham Shui Po branch on the Kowloon side, which is our target. 
We are on a mission to get there during what I presume to be a sweet spot between lunch and dinner. We take a taxi instead of the MTR, realizing that the taxi ride may cost almost as much as the meal there. Efficiently moving from the airport to the hotel to the restaurant, we arrive at Tim Ho Wan at 3:45pm, well within our target. To our surprise, the place is half empty! The atmosphere is also unexpectedly relaxed and the staff pretty helpful.

We pig out (as well as shrimping out) on no less than 10 dishes, including baked pork buns which is a must. I would rate at least several of these as the best I have ever had, including the slightly salty har gow, the siu mai with a generous shrimp portion, and the steamed dumpling in chiu chow style (fun gor) with a most delicate skin. The total bill comes to about US $25 for 10 dishes. Unreal. I am concluding that there is no reason to try dim sum at any of the more expensive places unless you need unusual or fancy creations, prvided you get a table without much aggravation.

Tim Ho Wan: a successful quest! Like everyone, we order their legendary baked pork buns, which some may say are too sweet, but they are just right for me! This item deserves the hype as well as a number of other things we try.

Mido Tea House in Yau Ma Tei: we have some time to kill before Temple Street Night Market gets going, so check out this supposedly vintage tea house (Cha Chaan Tang) with a retro look from 1950's overlooking Temple Street. But I am not overly impressed with the interior. Milk tea there is pretty good with the other drink being "boiled coke with lemon and ginger," as crazy as it sounds.

Temple Street: stepping right outside Mido Cafe, we find a number of stalls. However, there aren't enough vendors to fill the street. I had even scouted out a vantage point atop a nearby garage but won't need to go up to take a picture. Weak!

Temple Street: disappointed, I try a bit of street photography, and there are enough interesting scenes around.

Giving up on Temple Street Night Market has its advantage. We make it down to the harbor front in time for the "Symphony of Lights" starting at 8pm. Avenue of Stars, the usual viewing site, is under construction, so it is quite confusing where one needs to go, but we do find a platform nearby.

Symphony of Lights: where is the symphony and where are the additional lights? Where is the beef? We do see a few dancing laser beams from a couple of buildings, but I don't blame the American behind me who genuinely wonders out loud, "is there some sort of equipment mal-functioning?" Pretty weak! Well, the night view is nonetheless worth watching for 15 minutes.

Garden of Stars: the iconic statues originally on display on Avenue of Stars have been relocated here, including that of Bruce's which stands next to Anita Mui's.

We take the ferry to Macau, just like James Bond did in the Man with the Golden Gun (actually he did the reverse route). The speedy catamaran take only an hour but rides waves en route making some of the passengers a bit queasy. (Fortunately I have never known seasickness.) Upon arrival, many tourists ride buses provided for free by the casinos. We head to Grand Lisboa Hotel for lunch.

Robuchon au Dome, Macau (excuse the lack of French accent marks): the dome marks the highest point of Grand Lisboa with the eye-catching architecture.

Robuchon au Dome: a massive bread cart signifying a place that seems to thrive on excess

Robuchon au Dome: most tables are next to windows around the dome, affording a view of Macau

Robuchon au Dome: opulence in both surrounding and food. You wonder how Monsieur Robuchon manages quality at so many restaurants in his empire over the world. 

Oh, look what I found through the dome window - the ruins of St Paul's, the #1 historic monument in Macao! It's right in front of me - maybe we won't need to go there today!

Robuchon au Dome: an over-the-top petit fours cart.

Macau: casino hopping is one way to spend time in "Las Vegas of the East." (if Macau actually has higher gambling revenue than Las Vegas, then perhaps Vegas should be called Macau of the West?) Venetian on the right and the City of Dreams complex on the left. Inside Venetian, supposedly the largest casino in the world, there is a whole lot of selfie action with the fake Italian art work in the background. 

Coloane: a very modest village in the southern end of Macau on a separate island. A landmark here is Chapel of St Francis Xavier, which contains a painting of Madonna and Child with Chinese faces and clothing. 

Lord Stow's Bakery, Coloane: but the real reason we are in this remote town is the bakery known for its pastel de nata (Portuegese egg tart). The daughter couldn't be happier. The line moves fast, but to get here is difficult as bus drivers speak little English

As we head toward Macau Peninsula on a bus, the silhouette of Grand Lisboa Hotel looms large in a haze. We had lunch at the dome there and now we are going back to that hotel for dinner. I cannot help but think that without casinos, this place would be quite dull and economically struggle.

Ruins of St Paul's, Macau: we have time to visit before dinner. 

The maze-like area near the ruins of St Paul's is quite lively on a Saturday night.

Walking back to the casino area, using the lit Grand Lisboa Hotel as our North Star.

As we get out of Wynn after a quick look, I hear the music "O Mio Babbino Caro" and it's the dancing fountains!

Grand Lisboa fully lit: we are heading to the second floor for Eight, as we have a reservation at 7:30 at Eight. What? No typos here - the name of the restaurant is The Eight!

The Eight: there are enough symbols and signs of eight here, the number beloved by Chinese

The Eight: it is one of those places you wonder about - hidden behind the dark-paneled door that blends into the surrounding wall, which represents a barrier to entry. After passing one of those doors, we walk in a short futuristic passageway with holograms, which opens up to a spacious and elegantly appointed restaurant.

The Eight, Macau: they seem to refill the Oolong tea after each sip but charge extra for XO sauce (I need an XY sauce - Extra Young!); 

The Eight: in between seafood and meat courses, a great vegetarian dish of tofu skin and gingko fruits

The Eight: the taro pudding with a chocolate butterfly finishes off what I think is the best Cantonese dinner I have ever had so far, as the day trip to Macau ends.

Back in Hong Kong, forget sightseeing, it's going to be another day of shameless gastronomic pursuit. We are greeted by sophisticated decor and friendly dedicated service at Amber. Excellent amuse bouche including a buckwheat cracker with vegies on top (on a tall stand).

Amber, Hong Kong: "Kohlrabi" - this is a new version of their signature Hokkaido uni dish, which has now been "retired" and is rumored to be replicated at Corey Lee's new restaurant at San Francisco MOMA.

Amber, Hong Kong: very strong in the dessert department - overall an excellent value of a weekend wine lunch (and I usually don't even drink much wine)

Pacific Palace: after lunch, we end up inside one of the large shopping and entertainment complexes. Come to think of it, we did not set foot outside today, starting from the MTR station in Kowloon to the Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hotel to here. We are actually here to see a movie (AMC in upper right).

A L'Eclair de Genie "boutique," tempting but to be resisted after a high calorie lunch.

A movie in the middle of the day on a trip abroad? Yes, 1) to avoid heat, 2) to kill time before dinner, 3) to relax in a typically comfortable Asian movie theater seat, and 4) to check out a popular Korean zombie movie, "Train to Busan."

Lung King Heen: gathering with Dennis and his two friends for dinner at this premier Cantonese restaurant

Lung King Heen: we let Dennis pick the dishes, otherwise would never know to order superb ones like this "scallop and Asian pears."

Lung King Heen: very interesting vegetable dish based on winter melon jelly. We also try, among others, their delicious version of fried rice (not shown), which Dennis points out uses Har Mi sauce we came across at Bo Innovation earlier.

Lung King Heen: but the star of tonight's dinner is this abalone dish (sliced Amidori abalone with goose web and Chinese mushroon), a rare treat obscenely priced. A memorable meal to end this short culinary adventure in Southeast Asia.