Japan: Kansai 8 (Yoshino, Osaka)

As the peak of the blossoms is passing in the cities, it is time to move to a higher altitude. You might say we are chasing the cherry blossom line. Yoshino Mountains located south of Nara is just that place. 

On our last full day in Japan, I pick Yoshino Mountains over Koya, the latter being a revered holy mountain and a pilgrimage site south of Osaka, which will have to wait until our next visit to this region. We pass Asuka, an old capital of Japan, and arrive at the Yoshino train station, from which we walk up a short distance to the cable car station.

Yoshino: a cable car to reach the Yoshino-yama station.

Yoshino: reaching Yoshino-yama, we are joined by a huge crowd, some of whom have walked up from Yoshino instead of taking the cablecar.

Yoshino: Kane no Torii - a large 17th century bronze gate near the entrance to Kinpusen-ji Temple.

Yoshino: Inside Kinpusen-ji Temple is a special seasonal display of Zao Gongen, in front of  which are semi-private booths for praying. There is a long line to enter despite the 1,000 yen admission, which does come with put-your-shoes-here-and-keep-it-as-a-souvenir-afterwards tote bag. Oh, and I saw "no photos" sign, after clicking my camera of course...

Kinpusen-ji Temple, Yoshino: there is some sort of a sakura festival on the day we visit. The main annual festival occurs two days later.

Yoshino: walking toward Yoshimizu Jinja, we get a glimpse of the mountainside ablaze with cherry blossoms.

Yoshimizu Shrine, Yoshino: of course we have to compete to see the classic view.

Yoshino: view from Yoshimizu Shrine

Yoshino

Yoshino

Yoshino

Yoshino: the narrow alleyway in Yoshino-yama is lined with restaurants with viewing terraces. I try the local specialty, saba sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves, an old tradition used by monks.

Yoshino: a demonstration for yuba making

Back In Osaka, we celebrate the last dinner on this trip at an oden place near the hotel. A high-end oden restaurant sounds like an oxymoron, but this place certainly is, at least price-wise. Named Man U, but not the bastardization of the name of the famous English soccer team.

No English by the staff here. The Japanese sitting next to us at the counter who now lives in Malaysia states to the effect that all good food comes from Kyoto, then it's all improved in Osaka, then imported to Tokyo. "Only sushi and tempura are the best in Tokyo. Everything else - Osaka!"

Osaka: an oden restaurant with a menu handwritten and pasted on the counter

Osaka: an oden restaurant, Man U

Osaka: a multi-course oden dinner at Man U

Osaka: as expected, Konyakku is included. Bulk, fibers, and no calories - what's not to like? And this version is even tasty!

Osaka: no communication in English but the oden chef is friendly and professional.

Osaka: the oden meal ends with an excellent bowl of udon, although it is not Kitsune Osaka is famous for, which will have to wait until our next visit.

Japan: Kansai 7 (Kyoto Arashiyama)

First day of heavy rain on this trip. We should consider ourselves lucky to have seen much in the decent weather so far. We head to the Arashiyama district of Kyoto, located way out to the west. We get out there efficiently by taking the train to the Saga Arashiyama JR station. 

If there is a super splurge, this is it - a Kaiseki meal at Kitcho Arashiyama. It is no surprise that the entire meal is prepared as meticulously and presented as beautifully as one will ever see. The elegant private settings go well with the subtlety of the tastes and flavors. 

Kyoto: arriving in Arashiyama in the rain

Kyoto: being shown to a private tatami room at Kitcho Arashiyama

Kyoto: a house-made sake to go with the kaiseki at Kitcho Arashiyama

Kyoto: a sashimi course at Kitcho Arashiyama presented in a bowl with sakura decorations on one side and the maple leaves on the other.

Kyoto: hassun at Kitcho Arashiyama

Kitcho Arashiyama, Kyoto: items from the hassun served individually

Kyoto: Kaiseki at Kitcho Arashiyama

Kitcho Arashiyama, Kyoto: a minature dango dessert is typical of this entire Kaiseki meal - quality over quantity and style matching substance.

Kitcho is located along the picturesque Katsura river, but alas the rain prevents us from a leisurely stroll after lunch. We can't miss the nearby Tenryu-Ji temple, however. The north end of the temple complex naturally leads up north to the popular and often photographed bamboo forest.

Kyoto: Tenryu-Ji Temple in Arashiyama

Tenryu-Ji, Kyoto: a covered walkway is handy today

Tenryu-Ji, Kyoto: the rain will accelerate the end of the cherry blossom peak.

Tenryu-Ji, Kyoto: gardens in rain

Tenryu-Ji, Kyoto: azalea in abundance

Kyoto: entering a bamboo forest in Arashiyama

Arashiyama, Kyoto: rain and crowds present a challenge to photography, not to speak of the umbrellas!

Kyoto: leaving the bamboo forest in Arashiyama

Kyoto: can't pass up the "ramen street" within Kyoto Station.

Japan: Kansai 6 (Nara, Osaka)

Dropping the original idea to stop at the Horyu-Ji Buddhist temple complex on the way to Nara makes it a leisurely morning. We arrive in Nara in time for a Kaiseki lunch, this time at a mom and pop place. Yamamura-San offers a superb meal at this small unassuming place that bears his name at a fraction of the cost of comparable food at some of the top restaurants in Kyoto.

Nara: Chef Yamamura prepares sashimi at the counter, having just finished grating the wasabi

Nara: sashimi served in an ice bowl at Wa Yamamura

Nara: hassun at Wa Yamamura

Wa Yamamura, Nara: the chef's wife carefully places items from the hassun on to the individual plate

Wa Yamamura, Nara: a hand-written menu lists all the items served to us during lunch.

Wa Yamamura, Nara: the rice bowl signals the end of the kaiseki meal.

Wa Yamamura, Nara: the chef signs the back of our menu, the calligraphy including words like spring and happiness.

My second time in Nara, the first capital. Nothing seems to have changed in a dozen years, except a lot more crowds. Nara is an old historic city known for Todai-Ji Temple among others, but some of the modern-day visitors seem to be most delighted in feeding the abundant deer in Nara Park. 

Nara: a wave of humanity on the path to Todai-Ji

Nara: a deer, cherry blossoms, and a sign that says Todai-Ji

Nara: a deer and cherry blossoms

Nara: a deer, cherry blossoms, and a painter

Nara: Todai-Ji, the largest historic wooden structure in the world

Todai-Ji, Nara: Daibutsu, the largest bronze Buddha statue in the world, and the metal petals of the lotus it sits on. The Buddha lost its head a couple of times in history. (Literally, but not figuratively, as the Buddha never gets mad!) 

Todai-Ji, Nara: a line to try slithering through a narrow opening in the  column

Nara: Kasuga-taisha Shrine

Kasuga-taisha Shrine, Nara: known for its thousands of lanterns

Kasuga-taisha Shrine, Nara: a 500 yen admission buys you some tranquility and a view of bronze lanterns

Nara: Kofuku-Ji

Nara: the Kofuku-Ji complex has a treasure house which contains national treasures including a fantastic 8th century Ashura statue (featured in the middle here, no photos allowed inside)

We return to Osaka in time to visit Osaka Castle finally. This castle was built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who may be a hero in Japan but unfortunately is considered a chief villain by Koreans for presiding over the Japanese invasion of Korea in late 16th century. But there is no denying that the castle and the abundant cherry blossoms lit at night are a fantastic sight.

Osaka: castle grounds at night

Osaka Castle

Osaka Castle

Osaka Castle

Osaka Castle: "salarymen" enjoying hanami

Osaka: we also find a spot on a bench under cherry trees with a great view of the castle.

Osaka: hanami at Osaka Castle

Osaka Castle: plenty of food on castle grounds