Iceland 3

Struck out again last night. But it wasn’t hard because we gave up early. A bad weather was forecast, and as the evening progressed, more clouds seem to gather indeed. But another exciting day ahead. Today we move further east to explore the “southeast.” We are close to the vast Vatnajokull National Park and will access Jokulsarlon and Skaftafell. 

640 Jokulsarlon is our easternmost destination on this trip, which is a well-known “glacier lagoon.”  While we do not encounter too many of the floating iceberg or boat trips both of which are abundant in the summer, the surreal winter landscape is nonetheless nothing short of impressive. A nearby black sand beach at the river mouth is a blend of white/blue ice sculptures and the fine dark sand.

We then make our back west toward our hotel (yay, two nights at the same place) and explore the Skaftafell region. The path to the famous Svartifoss with the waterfall over the basalt columns is closed for casual hikers like our group. But the deep blue color of the tongue of the glacier Svinafellsjokull is absolutely stunning. The Oscar Awards are happening later today and it is no wonder that Hollywood movies have been made in this location.

Today we are blessed with a good weather (the Iceland definition of which is no wind and no rain). However, the forecast for tonight is heavy cloud cover, wind and possible snow. So again it seems that we are lucky with the weather during the day but not overnight.

Approaching Vatnajokull National Park: the bus lets out our group eager to photograph the 360-degree white vista.

The longest bridge in Iceland: the river dried up right after its construction making it unnecessary in retrospect. The guide announced, "I have a bridge to sell!"

The remnant of the old bridge

Multiple glaciers

One of them

Mist, fog, steam, or smoke, or whatever, it adds to the mystique.

Passing by the site of an old church wiped out by an avalanche

The weather gets worse and the world becomes whiter.

Like a Chinese painting

Jokulsarlon: a popular lagoon known for its floating icebergs

Jokulsarlon: a good place to walk along the shore even in the winter

Jokulsarlon: also good for contemplation, although I am just thankful I am not standing on a floating iceberg here.

Jokulsarlon: down at the river mouth, white meets black.

Jokulsarlon: this thousand year old compact ice sculpture looks like a pig ready to be buried for a Hawaiian luau. 

Jokulsarlon: not thrown from a cruise ship dining room, this translucent piece of ice I name a dragon (head on right).

Jokulsarlon: a good place for kids to roam around

Jokulsarlon: driving back in the completely white landscape - roadside and sky

a lunch break: a leg of lamb, overpriced and pretty tasteless

Svinafellsjokull: approaching the glacier ahead on an icy road

Svinafellsjokull: tongue of the glacier, which has receded over the years like most other glaciers in the world

Svinafellsjokull: remarkably blue

Svinafellsjokull: blue ice sculpture by nature

Svinafellsjokull: looks like a scene from the movie "Interstellar," which was partly filmed here.

Svinafellsjokull: there is another movie being made.

Svinafellsjokull: another look at the impossibly blue ice

The following morning we drive back to Reykjavik with just one stop at a small exhibit center for the 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajökull Volcano. We watch a 20 minute video containing an impressive footage of the eruption and the life of a farming family before and after the event. The editing and narration are solid without much sentimentality perhaps typical of this country. The scenery on the bus ride is of course not boring but the guide entertains us with some of the Icelandic sagas.

A brief bus tour of Reykjavik takes us to Perlan Hill with a commanding view of the city and to the old harbor with whaling boats, among other places. Armed (or footed) with newly acquired over-shoe-anti-slip grips, we go on an enjoyable walk from the hotel to the city center for dinner. I make one last attempt at seeing northern lights but all tours departing around 9pm are predictably cancelled because of the weather. We now have an excuse to return, not just in the summer for the drive around the island but for a winter trip, perhaps to Akuryeri up north.  

Waking up to the moon in the sky just outside the window but no aurora last night.

Sunrise at breakfast

This farm was devastated by the Eyjafjallajökull eruption but was quickly restored and now the family runs an exhibition center across the road.

Eyjafjallajökull Visitor Center: an exhibition run by a private family whose farm is visible across the road.

Eyjafjallajökull Visitor Center: photos and an impressive video footage are offered

Self-explanatory

Skyr: a popular yogurt based snack

Reykjavik from Perlan Hill

Reykjavik: not as cold as its latitude would indicate because of the gulf stream (or North Atlantic Drift)

Reykjavik: PETA members, avert your eyes - it's minke whale. It was not our choice but included in the tasting menu dinner at "Fishmarket." At least we weren't served puffin meat, which is also widely available in Iceland.

Reykjavik: a massive dessert plate at Fishmarket - might as well fall into a food coma since northern lights are out!

On our last morning in Reykjavik we finally make it to the top of Hallgrímskirkja Church for a fine view of the city. A good place to say good-bye for now.

Coming into view is the southeastern corner of Greenland!

Why is it called Greenland when it's white?