Alaska 2: Kenai

The drive from Anchorage south to Seward is entirely scenic: first the majestic Turnagain Arm, then a more intimate landscape with lush green mountains covered in fog and occasional rainbows. Is this Kenai or Kauai? The chilly air through the open car window lets you know you are still in Alaska. The roads are lined with the pink of the fireweed and scattered white of the common yarrow.

Driving on Seward Highway in Kenai Peninsula

The sleepy and attractive Seward is named after the Secretary of State responsible for purchasing Alaska from Russia for $7 million, which seems like a great bargain now. A Korean couple running a locally popular restaurant tells us they fell in love with Seward on their visit 20 years ago and decided to move from Seattle. Seward is a jumping off point for exploring Kenai Fjords National Park, and a boat cruise to Resurrection Bay and inlets further beyond is what most people do.

Seward: Gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park

Kenai Fjords National Park: The female skipper of our boat jokes, "the sea otter is the heaviest in the weasel family, except my ex." Sea otters are commonly seen in these waters now, which is a success story in conservation as they were hunted to near extinction for their fur, the densest among all animals. This guy glanced back at our boat, submerged under it and emerged on the other side.

Kenai Fjords National Park: Dall Porpoises playing alongside our boat

Kenai Fjords National Park: Puffins in flight

Kenai Fjords National Park: we are surrounded by several humpback whales, but to see them in action is often a waiting game.

Kenai Fjords National Park: We linger for a while at Aialik Glacier, our destination, to witness some decent calving, before turning around.

Kenai Fjords National Park: a kittiwake colony

Kenai Fjords National Park: Stellar sea lions on rocky outcroppings

Kenai Fjords National Park: a colony of common murres

Kenai Fjords National Park: this young humpback whale put on a show for 10 minutes

Kenai Fjords National Park: a puffin trying to get the attention of  the murre who does not seem interested.

Kenai Fjords National Park: this whale reveals just enough (the backswept dorsal fin) for us to identify it as the fin whale. It is the second largest mammal in the world after the blue whale.

Exiting Seward, we soon arrive at Exit Glacier (actually named because this was the terminus for the first party to cross the ice from Homer.) The constant drizzle is an excuse to abandon my ambitious plan to go a long hike and reach the mighty Harding Icefield that feeds all the glaciers in the area. We instead take a short guided walk to the edge of Exit Glacier. The passionate and informative National Park ranger, like all his colleagues, is an antithesis of the stereotype of an uninterested Federal employee. It is striking how fast the glacier has receded since we were here last. No further political comments here.

The rapidly receding Exit Glacier: this entire area in front was covered with ice on our last visit less then two decades.

In the whipping rain, we skip Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, stop briefly at Portage Visitor Center and head to Whittier, just to see what this funky town is about. Decidedly small and low-key, Whittier hosts cruises into Prince William Sound. We have a fond memory of a boat tour out of Valdez on the other side of the Sound on our last visit when we saw abundant marine life including orcas.

Whittier: the sight of a rundown building in pouring rain - somehow it seems appropriate. This is a town created during WWII and most of 200 residents live in one building. Fortunately it is the other high rise and not this one which an article calls a ruin porn.

The light at the end of the Whittier Tunnel: no, we are not risking our lives on a railroad track. This long tunnel (4.1 km) with a single one-way lane and alternating traffic shared by trains and cars is the only entrance (and perhaps fitting) way to enter this unusual town.

No, not a real bear, but just a decoration at Alyeska Resort, Girdwood. Real bear viewing will have to wait until tomorrow at Katmai National Park, weather permitting.