To Travel Is To Live: South of France III: Cote d'Azur 1

After the driving debacle in Aix-en-Provence, we arrive very late in Nice. We must be very close to our hotel, but keep circling the central area, as all means of electronic navigation are still dead. Plus these roads in Nice seem designed not for the cars but against them. The garage space our hotel has reserved for us is so narrow that it may physically be smaller than the width of our rental car. I certainly would not want to do more damage than a little paint scratch that happened while I was rushing to park near Atelier Cezanne in Aix. It finally dawns on me, in a near PTSD state, that the pros of driving in this part of France may be outweighed by the cons. I was aware that Nice is supposed to have excellent public transportation and further research convinces me that essentially all locations we plan to visit are doable by trains and buses. So after "recalculating," I boldly decide to return the car early. Our itinerary will be simplified and two locations will be dropped: Antibes (we have been to Picasso museums elsewhere) and Cannes (I will just have to return to rub elbows with all the stars!)

The following morning, it is immediately obvious how close our hotel is to the action in Nice - just a couple of short blocks from Place Massena. And the bus and train stations are all within walking distance. Last night's decision to ditch the car is justified! As we walk, the oversized king and the queen of Carnaval de Nice greet us at the entrance to the old town. The weather is beautiful and the market in Cours Saleya is charming. What a difference a day makes. A combination of socca (a chickpea crepe) by Theresa and a tourte aux blettes (Swiss chard tart) at Espuno's consumed while walking makes excellent lunch. Topping it off with an ice cream at Fenocchio's makes the car troubles of yesterday seem so far away.

Nice: oversized King and Queen of the Carnaval at Place Massena

Nice: flower market at Cours Saleya

Nice: fresh strawberries are popular in the Cours Saleya market.

Turning left on to Rue Droite

Nice: A beautiful morning at Place Rossetti. A middle-aged woman is belting out "La Vie en Rose." Can't avoid putting a coin in her basket, nor ice cream (right).

Our mind and body rejuvenated, we are ready for marathon Carnival activities. First up is the flower parade on Saturday at 2:30pm. Entering the arena set up on Promenade des Anglais along the beach is well organized, and crowds are orderly. This is certainly no Rio or New Orleans. Although there are a lot of young people and even small kids, the reserved seats in the stands are occupied by distinctly older crowds. The flower parade is like a more intimate but possibly more ornate version of the Rose Parade. This is definitely a fine visual feast in a comfortable setting.

Nice: Just before the Carnaval, the Russian troupe shows off in Place Massena.

Nice Carnaval: getting ready

Nice Carnaval: minutes before the start

Nice Carnaval: the confetti shower signals the start of the flower parade

Nice Carnaval: At the flower parade, it is the flowers that are tossed, duh, instead of beads

Nice Carnaval: flower parade

Nice Carnaval: fragrant yellow mimosa flowers are tossed

Nice Carnaval: flower parade

Nice Carnaval: an advantage of sitting in the last row is the 360-degree view. The parade is on the Promenade running along the beach.

Nice Carnaval: some people are exiting early and in too orderly a manner for a mardi gras. Perhaps the average age may have something to do with it.

Nice Carnaval: the theme of this year's flower parade is "the King of Music"

Nice Carnaval: flower parade

Nice: flower parade

Nice Carnaval: flower parade, or its aftermath

Nice Carnaval: it has just ended

For the second parade, the Carnaval moves from Promenade des Anglais to Place Massena under the lights. It does not start until 9pm, but a simple dinner feels like it is a brief break between the two events. It is a bit chilly but the performers (and most of the audience) are enthusiastic.

Dinner during the break between the day and night events: Salade Nicoise

Nice Carnaval: the night parade. Again, the confetti explosion marks the beginning.

Nice Carnaval: the night parade

Nice Carnaval: the night parade. The King's days (hours) are numbered, as his sacrifice on the last day (following night) is the finale of the Carnaval.

Nice Carnaval: the night parade

Nice Carnaval: a Psy-lookalike makes an appearance as "Gangnam Style" blares over the speakers as . For equal time, Kim Jung Un floats down later in the evening.

Nice Carnaval: can't stay away from politics. Hint: Yellow and blue are national colors of the Ukraine.

Nice Carnaval: the night parade - the aftermath

While most of Nice is likely recovering from the festivities of the night, we are on an artistic pursuit this morning. Getting to the Chagall Museum without a car is a breeze: going over by the slick tram and returning by the bus, which takes 10 minutes door to door. My faith in Nice's public transportation system is rewarded. Dedicated to the biblical theme, generously donated by the painter and inaugurated during his lifetime, this museum feels intimate and cohesive. A fitting tribute to the global artist whose works are celebrated all over the world, in a location he lived his last 38 prolific years.

Chagall Museum: an informative film plays in the auditorium, where you find his stained glasses and a piano that has his drawing on it.

Chagall Museum: a collection of large canvases each with a biblical theme. The one on the right depicts Abraham's sacrifice of Isaac.

Chagall Museum: "Paradise" This is a good place to try out different white balance settings on my camera!

Chagall Museum: a tribute to his wife

The Carnival resumes with a final day-parade on Sunday which turns out to be the same repertoire as the night parade. Our seats are closer to the action and although somewhat redundant, it is like an encore in a different light. The final event is the burning of the king for which there are no reserved seats, but my concern for a mayhem is unfounded, as it occurs out in the sea, and people are spread out over the beach and they are pretty sedate. The actual burning is over quickly, a bit of an anticlimax, but the ensuing fireworks on the beach last forever and are a fine way to end the marvelous weekend of Nice Carnival.