Iceland 2

A little bit of sleep deprivation. Not just from a jet lag but staying up till late to check for the aurora every 20 minutes or so. I hear some hotels offer an "aurora wake-up service" and guests dart outside with a coat over pajamas. But I gave up around 1:30am, as there was increasing cloud cover and stars could not even be seen.

We are done with the "southwest" and today drive further east to cover the "south" section of the island. The first stop is at Seljalandfoss Falls where a British youth group is having fun slipping and sliding on an icy path. Shoe spikes our guide lent us are a godsend.


Then it's on to the town of Skogar, where there is s delightful folk museum and an impressive waterfall. Before reaching the next town Vik, we stop for lunch at a black sand beach. Most of the route today was covered with black ash during the time of the massive eruption of Eyjafjallajökull (say that fast three times). Actually this volcano was a household name when it caused an unprecedented disruption in flights in 2010. 


Our hotel today is just past Kirkjubæjarklaustur, a small town that marks the boundary of "south" and "southeast." Another impossible name, you say? Just break up the word into kirkju (church) - bæjar (farm) - klaustur (cloister). Church - Farm - Cloister. Easy. The guide says if last night's hotel was in the middle of nowhere, tonight's is in the middle of no-no-nowhere.

Herring offered at breakfast buffet, including a red one. Actually the yellow-red light in the sky last night mimicking the aurora was a red herring!

Ring road: the base of Eyjafjallajökull Volcano is visible.

Seljalandfoss

Seljalandfoss: the main fall

Skogar: The climb up to the top of Skogafoss falls is breathtaking, literally.

Skogar: the excellent Folk Museum displays interesting objects of traditional Icelandic life of survival. A driftwood bowl with the lid acting also as a plate

Skogar Folk Museum: lacking primary materials such as clay, Icelanders of old used a whale vertebra as a receptacle.

Skogar: old turf-roofed farmhouses

This area was covered with black ash when Eyjafjallajökull erupted in 2010. The guide says it was like a color movie went black and white all of a sudden.

Descending to a black beach

Reynisfjara: impressive basalt columns on the black sand beach

Reynisfjara: sea stacks seen from the pristine black sand beach. Strong waves here have claimed victims, including an unsuspecting tourist who was washed away a few weeks ago.

From the black sand beach: this is a case of the picture not doing justice to the ambiance.

Vik: the church overlooks the town.

Vik: Reynisdrangur (sea stacks), believed to be trolls caught out in the sun

Our surrealistic hotel with box-like rooms, or are these actually boxes in a modular building? A bit like the eco hotel in the Bolivian salt flat that gets blown up in "Quantum of Solace."

The back side of our simple room opens directly to the lava field. Perfect for aurora viewing in pajamas. Except the weather is not cooperating.

Buffet dinner at the hotel, understandably overpriced, given the isolated location, includes arctic char and cod.

Iceland 1

What would make any one leave sunny California in late February for a country with a name that sounds really cold? Well, in this case, the lure of Aurora Borealis. Whether we can actually see the elusive northern lights on this short trip is up in the air... so to speak.  Given that we are a few years after the last peak in the 11-year solar cycle and that the local weather predicts nothing but clouds and snow in the next several days, I am not optimistic. But surely there are other worthwhile things to experience, such as the other-worldly landscape, or at least the winter version of it.

Some people head straight to the Blue Lagoon, the undisputed No. 1 tourist attraction in Iceland, after they land in the nearby airport, but arriving on a red eye from Boston, we opt to check in first at our hotel in Reykjavik. The hotel is located outside the city center, but hey it is close to Phallological Museum. 

After a nap and lunch, our first stop is the landmark structure with an impossible name, Hallgrímskirkja (thank God for copy/paste), but alas the tower that's supposed to give a commanding view of Reykjavik is closed three hours for a funeral when we visit.  Is it wrong to wonder why the ceremony should take so long?  The snowfall gets heavier and drops visibility to near zero. The temperature, however, remains tolerable.

The world-famous geothermal pool was established after the Brooke Shields movie, which is an indication of their commercial ambition. Indeed the crowds are now supported by 700 lockers, and a swim-up bar has drawn comparison to Vegas or tropical resorts (with a different meaning for the "steamy" of course.)  But on our first day here, I don't want to be too cynical, so we compromise and pay a visit without paying for a privilege to dip in the water and get the hair wet with silica mud laden turquoise water.

Blue Lagoon, Iceland: it's said to be the only place with a lifeguard on duty in a ski jacket (on the bridge).

Reykjavik: not cold and snowy enough to deter us from a little pre-dinner stroll along the harbor. On the far shore, seen through this viking ship sculpture, is a house where Reagan and Gorbachev met.

Reykjavik: Harpa, a glamorous performance hall in the harbor, which some say cost more than Iceland could afford. A small lava field in the foreground.

Reykjavik: Dill, a leading "New Nordic" style restaurant. An amuse bouche of reindeer tartar with beet skin.

Dill, Reykjavik: a dish based on Rutabaga (Swedish turnip), part of the set menu called #146, only choice of the day

Reykjavik: Hallgrímskirkja Chruch on a snowy evening

A package tour is not the option I would normally have taken, but the strong desire not to have to negotiate winter roads trumps flexibility of a self-drive. It turns out to be a large bus but fortunately there are only 15 or so comrades who will brave the weather and try our luck at northern lights together the next several days.

The first part of the itinerary is the so-called golden circle, Thingvellir-Geysir-Gullfoss. (Well, technically not exactly a circle, but the triangle designation is already taken, Delhi-Agra-Jaipur among others.) This can be done on a day trip from Reykjavik although we are moving on and will be staying at another town in the "southwest" of the country. The weather improves steadily throughout the day and our guide, a middle-aged woman with a last name of course ending with -dottir, while matter-of-fact, is extremely informative and helpful.

Reykjavik: a view through our hotel room window. The clock on Hallgrímskirkja Church shows 8:20 (AM). It's still pretty dark and the city is covered with fresh snow.

Golden Circle: approaching Thingvellir National Park. Glad not to be driving myself.

Thingvellir National Park: A UNESCO World Heritage site, it is significant for natural as well as political history. Meetings during the Viking era and an independence celebration for Republic of Iceland in 1944 were held on site.

Thingvellir National Park: visitors walk on the gorge created by the parting of North American (left) and European (right) plates. Fortunately tectonic movements did not speed up while we were walking.

Ring Road: through the bus window, there is frequent sighting of Icelandic horses. They are short and stocky but don't call them ponies!

Gullfoss: "Golden Falls" from the upper observation point

Gullfoss: from the lower observation point. Falls minus the rainbow today.

Gullfoss: lamb soup, a local specialty

Credit cards are universally accepted, including at the pay toilet! At $1.50, it has to be the most expensive in the world.

Ring Road: between Gullfoss and Geysir, majestic views continue.

Geysir: the original one after which all the, well, geysers, have been named. Now essentially dormant (a little bit of steam on right).

Geysir: Iceland or Yellowstone, geyser eruptions always delight visitors.

Geysir: In honor of Jeff Koons, I name this one "Puppy" after his piece in Bilbao, Spain.

Geysir: a steam locomotive would be envious.

Fridheimar farm: a high-tech greenhouse. Iceland seems to have a surprising abundance of certain kinds of vegetables.

Greenhouse: bees are imported

Farm-to-table: this greenhouse is also a good stop for lunch or snacks. While most people in our group order a Bloody Mary, I opt for a tomato ice cream, served in a flower pot no less.

Fludir: One-stop shopping at Gamla Laugin (Secret Lagoon) - a swimming pool and a hot tub in one. After being a mere spectator in Blue Lagoon, here we do go in the water. 

Our hotel, named after the mighty volcano Hekla, feels like it's in the middle of nowhere. Just before the sunset, I stroll out onto the pristine snow with only my footprints and shadow on it.

The view out our room window is Dr. Zhvago country.

Having fun with this gentle Iceland horse at sunset.

Encore.

More Iceland horses at sunset.

Sunset.

Aurora? An eerie light well after the sunset gets our hopes up. The sky is partially clear with some stars visible.

On the other side of the sky, there are fairly intense yellow-red colors. Alas, the aurora is usually (although not always) green and the only thing green about this light, we learn later, is that it comes from the lit greenhouses! Better luck next time, although these lights on a cold night are enjoyable in their own right.